Amplifier overheating with proper impedance?

T_Ves57

Junior Member
Hey all,

So I have a Crunch PZA 1400.2 amp, and it has 2 channels. Bridged, the amp is rated to be stable at 4 ohms. It's pushing 2 8 ohm subs, specifically the Renegade 1002 enclosure, which are wired in parallel to be at 4 ohms. The subs are preboxed, but I took it apart and they were indeed wired in parallel. However, when I run the amp bridged into the two subs, it begins to get extremely hot and I had one overheat already. I replaced the amp to make sure there were no damages to it and the new one is doing the same thing.

I ran the subs bridged on one of the channels alone, with the amp in stereo mode, and although it was quite quieter it had no problem running both subs without heating up much at all. The amp is also rated 2 ohm stable when in stereo.

I know it's safer to just run it off of one of the channels, but I also know the amp shouldn't be overheating like it is, and should run the subs just fine when bridged. Any advice? I want to get the full power out of my amp, seeing as it shouldn't be an issue, and I don't want to have to give up performance...

If you want any more info just ask!

 
i have had the previous powerzone 1100.2 (black&silver)anyhow it was ran to my subs got hot but never any issue except when i put it on a 1 ohm lead bridged and was competing my 1 12 cvr vs 1 l7 15 on a kicker 1500/2500

any how the amp was slamming for minutes (when it should have been seconds) it just threw fuses ..i replaced the fuse and kept slamming leaving it at 1ohm bridged(not knowing about ohm's)

i cranked out every 550 wrms it had and then sum . for about 10 minutes then my sub failed

 
i used to have a hifonics zxi1006 that did the same thing, what might help is a y shaped rca connector one female in/two males out. it still got really warm but not hot. you might have to do what i did and go ahead and get a monoblok class d amp. there are a whole lot of choices and many price points, do some research and ask some questions here and you will probably find what you need/like, oh yeah....i got a audiopipe apsm1300, 300wrmsx1 @ 4ohms, 600wrms @ 2, and 1000wrms @ 1. it is underpowering my re audio se10d4's but it will due until i upgrade...nice concept.....upgrade. you might want to upgrade your big3, most guys on here will suggest 0/1 guage. good look searching for that ever elusive search for the thing we call the perfect sound.

 
when in low pass it overheats/and what are you filters like ?

and your ground
Ground is good, sanded down to the bare metal on my frame so that shouldnt be an issue. And both ground and power are 4 gauge so wiring shouldn't be an issue either... Yes it is in low pass running 2 subs. I'm new to this...fill me in on the filters situation?

And im not even running my gain at 3/4's, so it shouldn't be an overpowering issue...

 
i would check your battery with a load tester casue event tho it shows voltage doesnt meen it can sustain that. and when your engine is running its your alternator doing all the work unless you have a 14.4 battery in there helping then your alt is doing All the work so if that cant keep up its left to your battery so if that is week too then your assed out ..just a thought sounds like everything else is good unless your over driving your input stage to the amp say that amp wants 6v max and you have a 8v preout deck then your going to be sending clipped signals to the amp and it has no other option then to turn that to heat and...done good luck

 
Ground is good, sanded down to the bare metal on my frame so that shouldnt be an issue. And both ground and power are 4 gauge so wiring shouldn't be an issue either... Yes it is in low pass running 2 subs. I'm new to this...fill me in on the filters situation?And im not even running my gain at 3/4's, so it shouldn't be an overpowering issue...
Set your gain right and I bet your issues goes away. 3/4 is normally to high Depending on your hu.
 
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Ok, i will go on this option. Thanks a lot bro for the help, i really appreciate again, Cheers
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T_Ves57

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