Few questions

[Fabian12]

Can’t find a lot of information on the internet, so gonna try my luck here:
A
#1: What is the point of using 2/0 gauge wire just to have it go into a reducer that’s 2 gauge feeding into the amp?

#2: If I’m trying to achieve 3000W RMS. Do I need 2/0 gauge wire? I’ve got 2 gauge right now and it doesn’t get hot. But I’ve never messed with power like this so I’m not sure if I need it. I see all these sub manufacturers saying 4 gauge will work for 2000w Rms and that makes no sense to me .

Gear: SIA3500S, SA ZV.5 15” (running at 1ohm), 150ah worth of batteries, 320amp alternator. Big 3 (kinda, it’s all 2 gauge)

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[Fabian12]

* I know I need bigger wire, my main question with that was why the wire didn’t get hot at full tilt

 

[metalheadjoe 10+ year member]

Can’t find a lot of information on the internet, so gonna try my luck here:
A
#1: What is the point of using 2/0 gauge wire just to have it go into a reducer that’s 2 gauge feeding into the amp?

#2: If I’m trying to achieve 3000W RMS. Do I need 2/0 gauge wire? I’ve got 2 gauge right now and it doesn’t get hot. But I’ve never messed with power like this so I’m not sure if I need it. I see all these sub manufacturers saying 4 gauge will work for 2000w Rms and that makes no sense to me .

Gear: SIA3500S, SA ZV.5 15” (running at 1ohm), 150ah worth of batteries, 320amp alternator. Big 3 (kinda, it’s all 2 gauge)

1) Wire resistance increases with length, which is why you see wire size charts that factor in thickness and length (insert mom joke). If you have 2/0 all the way to the reducer, your overall wire resistance is lower.

2) Goldilocks situation here. 2g is too small. 2/0 is not necessary. 1/0 is "just right". Having said that, if you can afford and route 2/0, you absolutely should. There's no such thing as too much current capacity.

Your wire doesn't get hot because it is such an enormous "resistor". You have 10' of 1/2" think metal to dissipate the heat it generates. It would take a lot of energy to make it warm to the touch, but that doesn't mean you aren't losing output. I need more info about your configuration to say whether your wiring is sufficient.

 

[audiobaun 5,000+ posts]

Can’t find a lot of information on the internet, so gonna try my luck here:
A
#1: What is the point of using 2/0 gauge wire just to have it go into a reducer that’s 2 gauge feeding into the amp?

#2: If I’m trying to achieve 3000W RMS. Do I need 2/0 gauge wire? I’ve got 2 gauge right now and it doesn’t get hot. But I’ve never messed with power like this so I’m not sure if I need it. I see all these sub manufacturers saying 4 gauge will work for 2000w Rms and that makes no sense to me .

Gear: SIA3500S, SA ZV.5 15” (running at 1ohm), 150ah worth of batteries, 320amp alternator. Big 3 (kinda, it’s all 2 gauge)

Run 1/0ga OFC supply wiring and main ground wiring, and you will be just fine. The 2ga supply is not sufficient for that amp you have to supply the demand. Run 1/0ga OFC and you will be fine. Ive heard people having issues with that amplifier from the 1500 on up. Id keep an eye on it and make sure you keep the original box and all plastics, ect. to be ready for a return under warranty.

 

[Doxquzme Premium Member]

I think the question is about the reducer. Resistance is a factor of several things. The three main things are the type of wire (Pure copper versus copper clad aluminum), the gauge of the wire and the length. When you use a reducer, the size and material are inconsequential (as 1/0 or 2/0 AWG reducers are going to be rather large anyway) so the only thing left is the length. Reducers are far too short to contribute any real resistance and therefore are not a bottleneck as they may appear to be. Think fuses, 2-3 inches long on that fat wire, a little 8th” wide by 1/2" long metal strip in the middle passes the rated current and its a tiny piece of material, but very short in length.

 

[brice15s]

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[brice15s]

do you have to have a mod to delete posts? cant find a delete option

 

[brice15s]

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[metalheadjoe 10+ year member]

I think the question is about the reducer. Resistance is a factor of several things. The three main things are the type of wire (Pure copper versus copper clad aluminum), the gauge of the wire and the length. When you use a reducer, the size and material are inconsequential (as 1/0 or 2/0 AWG reducers are going to be rather large anyway) so the only thing left is the length. Reducers are far too short to contribute any real resistance and therefore are not a bottleneck as they may appear to be. Think fuses, 2-3 inches long on that fat wire, a little 8th” wide by 1/2" long metal strip in the middle passes the rated current and its a tiny piece of material, but very short in length.

I think he'sasking because electricity is often compared to water to make it easier to understand. It can be helpful, but it can be misleading. Water can only flow as much as the most restrictive point, but electricity doesn't have choke points.