how do brands like boss, pyramid, ssl not get in trouble for false?

[mylows10 5,000+ posts]

But how do they get that peak power? Is it at a specific frequency that an amp puts out its max power?

all amps are tested ay certain frequencies to get the rms or max power ratings ,the way i explained it ,was how i was told its done

 

[jockhater2 10+ year member]

all amps are tested ay certain frequencies to get the rms or max power ratings ,the way i explained it ,was how i was told its done

So lets say you have a DC 2.0k

When they rate it for 2000 watts. DC gets that rating at a certain hertz and that is how they rate it?

I am assuming they do it at frequency that is a bit harder to make power. Like 30-40 hertz.

While boss/pyle/pyramid probably do it at 80-100hz?

 

[TaylorFade 10+ year member]

I believe the standard is 1khz for full range amps and 100hz for sub amps.

My guess is that they aren't actually clamping these numbers. Even for a split second. They're clipping them to death on a wide open gain pot and extrapolating the output by the AC voltage.

Say you have a "1,000w RMS" amp. Set clean that amp is probably doing in the neighborhood of 31-32 ac volts. Crank the gain all the way up and you might get 60 volts. And probably would. Well... square that voltage to assume the theoretical output at 1 ohm and you get a 3,600w "MAX" bullshit rating.

 

[d77543020 10+ year member]

I honestly would like to know what keeps these brands alive while other quality brands are dying off I mean does every teenager who just gets into car audio go straight to boss and pyle

 

[BlurredVision 10+ year member]

A lot of these companies have venues other than car audio. That's how they survive. I was looking for a good set of noise cancelling headphones and apparently Pyle makes really good NC cans. Can't talk about the quality, but I hear they work like a boss

 

[3 Kings Pro Seller]

I honestly would like to know what keeps these brands alive while other quality brands are dying off I mean does every teenager who just gets into car audio go straight to boss and pyle

There's price points for everyone, not only is everyone's economic means different, but passions and even "give a craps" vary from person to person.

For example: My 2 front speakers in my living room retail for about $4,500. Most people go to Walmart or Best Buy and spend about $500 max on an HTIB system that I wouldn't even use in my garage.

Now I didn't pay anywhere close to full retail value for the speakers - I got them, with a smaller center channel speaker for about $1,800 several years ago through an accomodation program with my (at that time) employer, I had wanted those for years and finally I had the perfect chance to get them shortly before I left the company.

Most people will not spend that kind of money on a house worth of speakers, let alone a few fronts. Even more people couldn't tell you the quality difference between those and a pair of crappy Bose speakers to save their life.

Everyone has different priorities - for some it's about competitions, for others they want cool looking stuff, some people want it LOUD, some people want it clear, some people just want/need a slight upgrade and couldn't care less about/identify the quality with a gun to their head- others can't afford to get to play with the nice toys or have other places they they HAVE to spend the money before they work on upper tier electronics.

 

[LosIsATool 5,000+ posts]

There's price points for everyone, not only is everyone's economic means different, but passions and even "give a craps" vary from person to person.
For example: My 2 front speakers in my living room retail for about $4,500. Most people go to Walmart or Best Buy and spend about $500 max on an HTIB system that I wouldn't even use in my garage.

Now I didn't pay anywhere close to full retail value for the speakers - I got them, with a smaller center channel speaker for about $1,800 several years ago through an accomodation program with my (at that time) employer, I had wanted those for years and finally I had the perfect chance to get them shortly before I left the company.

Most people will not spend that kind of money on a house worth of speakers, let alone a few fronts. Even more people couldn't tell you the quality difference between those and a pair of crappy Bose speakers to save their life.

Everyone has different priorities - for some it's about competitions, for others they want cool looking stuff, some people want it LOUD, some people want it clear, some people just want/need a slight upgrade and couldn't care less about/identify the quality with a gun to their head- others can't afford to get to play with the nice toys or have other places they they HAVE to spend the money before they work on upper tier electronics.

If they knew better they would see they are infact getting ripped off. They could spend the same money on an alpine 500 watt amp as they spend on the 3000 watt boss amp and do the same thing, and have it last longer. But they wont get to say they have a 3000 watt amp!

 

[3 Kings Pro Seller]

^^

Well there's certainly that as well!

 

[ramos 5,000+ posts]

You think the entry level companies are the only ones fudging numbers? lulz

 

[keep_hope_alive Premium Member]

didn't read all of the posts but the issue with power ratings is they don't tell you time of the test, the test conditions, if the amp works after the test, etc.

i'm sure Boss measures their published numbers using 16V supplies, square wave signals, and at the point of amplifier failure.

for me, a useful system of amplifier power measurement would be something like this

12VDC supply, 20Hz-20kHz pink noise input signal (of #V RMS input, with gain/input sensitivity set to #V ) into a 4 ohm load for 1 hour with

(i.e. amp works after test and meets all specs after test)

any power "rating" other than that is near meaningless to me.

 

[hispls 5,000+ posts]

about 50hz is the frequency that digital multimeters are most accurate with

What? Any source on this? Also you think the factory in China only has a 10$ auto-zone DMM and not o-scope?

about 50hz is the frequency that digital multimeters are most accurate with, that is the frequency I use to set my gains.
Not smart enough to tell you why it's the most accurate frequency, just know thats how u do it.

Parroting something you heard someone say online doesn't do anyone any favors. If you can't prove there is some validity to this "theory" you shouldn't throw it around like there's some basis in fact.

People still buy boss?

If not that, 30 other "brands" ..... the same 2 or 3 Chinese boards in various heatsinks with differing rediculous numbers printed on the heatsink. Every day on this forum people are trying to cheap out on equipment and swearing up and down it's just great stuff.

So lets say you have a DC 2.0kWhen they rate it for 2000 watts. DC gets that rating at a certain hertz and that is how they rate it?

I am assuming they do it at frequency that is a bit harder to make power. Like 30-40 hertz.

While boss/pyle/pyramid probably do it at 80-100hz?

Do people really believe it's "harder" for an amp to make power at different frequencies?

I honestly would like to know what keeps these brands alive while other quality brands are dying off I mean does every teenager who just gets into car audio go straight to boss and pyle

Again, search this forum and find people swearing up and down how great the junk brands are. I expect most people who buy them don't know better, plenty of people don't care, and I would hardly say quality brands are dying

didn't read all of the posts but the issue with power ratings is they don't tell you time of the test, the test conditions, if the amp works after the test, etc.
i'm sure Boss measures their published numbers using 16V supplies, square wave signals, and at the point of amplifier failure.

for me, a useful system of amplifier power measurement would be something like this

12VDC supply, 20Hz-20kHz pink noise input signal (of #V RMS input, with gain/input sensitivity set to #V ) into a 4 ohm load for 1 hour with

(i.e. amp works after test and meets all specs after test)

any power "rating" other than that is near meaningless to me.

I think they just pull the numbers out of their arse. This has been going on for a long time and really seems to be a good strategy for selling chinese junk to the uneducated masses.

 

[LosIsATool 5,000+ posts]

What? Any source on this? Also you think the factory in China only has a 10$ auto-zone DMM and not o-scope?


Parroting something you heard someone say online doesn't do anyone any favors. If you can't prove there is some validity to this "theory" you shouldn't throw it around like there's some basis in fact.

If not that, 30 other "brands" ..... the same 2 or 3 Chinese boards in various heatsinks with differing rediculous numbers printed on the heatsink. Every day on this forum people are trying to cheap out on equipment and swearing up and down it's just great stuff.

Do people really believe it's "harder" for an amp to make power at different frequencies?

Again, search this forum and find people swearing up and down how great the junk brands are. I expect most people who buy them don't know better, plenty of people don't care, and I would hardly say quality brands are dying

I think they just pull the numbers out of their arse. This has been going on for a long time and really seems to be a good strategy for selling chinese junk to the uneducated masses.

Are you joking? Audiopipe and SS Rubicons are great cause they do close to rated.

 

[hispls 5,000+ posts]

Are you joking? Audiopipe and SS Rubicons are great cause they do close to rated.

Cool story, bro.

 

[jockhater2 10+ year member]

Cool story, bro.

My words before weren't a statement. They were a question.

Do amps make more power at different frequencies?

 

[jockhater2 10+ year member]

didn't read all of the posts but the issue with power ratings is they don't tell you time of the test, the test conditions, if the amp works after the test, etc.
i'm sure Boss measures their published numbers using 16V supplies, square wave signals, and at the point of amplifier failure.

for me, a useful system of amplifier power measurement would be something like this

12VDC supply, 20Hz-20kHz pink noise input signal (of #V RMS input, with gain/input sensitivity set to #V ) into a 4 ohm load for 1 hour with

(i.e. amp works after test and meets all specs after test)

any power "rating" other than that is near meaningless to me.

Ohhhh that makes a lot of sense. So if they got XXXX watts out of an amp but it broke in the process...they can still put it down that it did that. Wow. That is so wrong.