JayDubb757 10+ year member
CarAudio.com Elite
I'd figure out why your filters don't work before I'd buy anything.maybe I just need to get a dd1....
Maybe try running them active.
I'd figure out why your filters don't work before I'd buy anything.maybe I just need to get a dd1....
I ran it like it is wired up now on the active sittings and that just cuts out the bass. I would need to wire tweets and mids on sep channels correct for active?I'd figure out why your filters don't work before I'd buy anything.Maybe try running them active.
Bypass the crossover and wire mids and tweets on seperate channels, yes.I ran it like it is wired up now on the active sittings and that just cuts out the bass. I would need to wire tweets and mids on sep channels correct for active?
But overpowering can lead to blowing an expensive @$$ set of comps tooThe best part about CDT's is that they can take a ton of power, a lot more than they are rated. I personally have a HD-62 set in my ride, and its way over powered and sounds bitchin. We havnt played much with the new HD-E6 driver thats in the new HD-61 set but if Ken at CDT put it in the HD series then it sure as hell can take a beating. I personally would run 200W. IMO overpowering is better than under powering.
Well **** if they dont sound like there stressing let em beat man, maybe i just have girly ears lolI currently have my Kenwood 4 channel pushing them bridged and it's a passive setup. Supposedly the two channels bridged is 190 wrms per side. They are playing loud and clear no problem.
I see.The crossovers in the HD-61a set have tweeter protection built in, so the level adjustment is to adjust the treble level to your taste.