how to Build nice loud but clean system?

C1500martin
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Hey guys i really want to build a nice loud but also clean sounding system. So far this is my setup

HU: Kenwood KDC-352U

SUB: Fi Q12 fully loaded

AMP: Hifonics Brutus elite 2500.1

SPEAKERS: 4xAlpine SPS-406 running off H.U

I purchased an epicenter as well because i occasionally listen to mexican music (corridos) which lacks bass but i am now regretting it because i am reading they are sub blowers and arent good?

What should i buy for this? do i need a sound processor? Equalizer? what speakers are good that can take an amp? Im very noobish with a good quality build so sorry for all the questions. Anything helps, thanks!

 
Hey guys i really want to build a nice loud but also clean sounding system. So far this is my setupHU: Kenwood KDC-352U

SUB: Fi Q12 fully loaded

AMP: Hifonics Brutus elite 2500.1

SPEAKERS: 4xAlpine SPS-406 running off H.U

I purchased an epicenter as well because i occasionally listen to mexican music (corridos) which lacks bass but i am now regretting it because i am reading they are sub blowers and arent good?

What should i buy for this? do i need a sound processor? Equalizer? what speakers are good that can take an amp? Im very noobish with a good quality build so sorry for all the questions. Anything helps, thanks!
For hispanic music, learn how to do a clean bass boost with audacity lol... easier said then done but it takes time, dont do the stupid way that most idiots teach on youtube, always take clipping into account(there's a show clipping indicator in the program).

To be honest though, you'd be surprised what a head unit can do to your overall sound quality. I would get an 80 prs over An EQ or bass processor anyday. Comparing the 80 prs to your old head unit, Your type S speakers will sound like focals after the auto EQ/time alignment does its job(given that you did proper door treatments). Yes it will sound amazing compared to your current head unit right now. There's an absolute definitive difference in how each head unit sounds, most people dont realize how much a good audio source can impact their overall sound quality.

Sound processors are nice but are very expensive, if your going that route, the best bang for the buck would be JBL ms8.

Last thing i might want to point out is, hispanic music generally does not reach down to 30-40 hz area often, you might need a subwoofer enclosure that has more response in the midbass region to make the bass a lot more present.

 
For hispanic music, learn how to do a clean bass boost with audacity lol... easier said then done but it takes time, dont do the stupid way that most idiots teach on youtube, always take clipping into account(there's a show clipping indicator in the program).
To be honest though, you'd be surprised what a head unit can do to your overall sound quality. I would get an 80 prs over An EQ or bass processor anyday. Comparing the 80 prs to your old head unit, Your type S speakers will sound like focals after the auto EQ/time alignment does its job(given that you did proper door treatments). Yes it will sound amazing compared to your current head unit right now. There's an absolute definitive difference in how each head unit sounds, most people dont realize how much a good audio source can impact their overall sound quality.

Sound processors are nice but are very expensive, if your going that route, the best bang for the buck would be JBL ms8.

Last thing i might want to point out is, hispanic music generally does not reach down to 30-40 hz area often, you might need a subwoofer enclosure that has more response in the midbass region to make the bass a lot more present.
id be willing to learn to do bass boosts on audacity but the thing is i listen to pandora and spotify 99% of the time so adjusting my music is not an option. the 80 prs seems pretty hi tech but for the price of almost $300 wouldn't it be the same if i keep my head unit and buy a processor?

 
id be willing to learn to do bass boosts on audacity but the thing is i listen to pandora and spotify 99% of the time so adjusting my music is not an option. the 80 prs seems pretty hi tech but for the price of almost $300 wouldn't it be the same if i keep my head unit and buy a processor?
the thing with a processor, you need to know what your doing to tune anything properly, it'll take you a good amount of time to properly learn it, if your new to tuning a sound processor, it'll be overwhelming at first and most likely your not gonna get the sound you want. It is worth it in the long run if your willing to put in several months of time learning, experimenting and tuning your entire system properly.

I just recommended the 80 prs because it does everything for you and most of the times the auto EQ/DTA with the mic does a good enough job to satisfy most.

 
i agree a new head unit is a good place to start. as an Alpine fan, I recommend the CDE-HD149BT over the 80PRS because it has a lower noise floor, is easier to use, has fantastic sound, and isn't plagued with issues Pioneer could fix if they cared enough.

your main limitation right now is not the sub but the 4x6 speakers you have. they will never sound amazing. but you got what you got so at a minimum, using the crossovers in the new head unit (either) will help with overall clarity.

 
But is the processor REALLY worth it? like i heard a guys sytem he had 1 Fi q12 same as mine, pioneer double din headunit (not sure what model) im not sure what door speakers, but he had a Q2200 running the sub and another soundqubed amp powering his speakers PLUS the Alpine PXA-H800 processor. He had a xs battery under the hood and HO singer alternator. and honestly i did not think his system was all that. His system was probably worth $4K and it sounded (to me) like something i could buy at the swap meet for $500

 
i agree a new head unit is a good place to start. as an Alpine fan, I recommend the CDE-HD149BT over the 80PRS because it has a lower noise floor, is easier to use, has fantastic sound, and isn't plagued with issues Pioneer could fix if they cared enough.
your main limitation right now is not the sub but the 4x6 speakers you have. they will never sound amazing. but you got what you got so at a minimum, using the crossovers in the new head unit (either) will help with overall clarity.
the 4x6 im going to change forsure i hate those things theyre tiny and i cant have ANY bass whatsoever or they sound like **** i literally have to have my system at -8 bass

 
the 4x6 im going to change forsure i hate those things theyre tiny and i cant have ANY bass whatsoever or they sound like **** i literally have to have my system at -8 bass
I put type S 6 x 9s in my setup back then when i was using a pioneer 4200 ub, thought they sounded like shiet really tinny and didnt have any midbass whatsoever. Threw them in the back of my closet. When i had my 80 prs installed, i tried hooking them up and did the auto EQ with the mic and i swear, they become a totally different driver, no harsh highs, midbass is present and clarity jumped up miles compared to the old pioneer i had, it even had soundstage and imaging... which is wierd comming from low end rear fills. Seems like you still underestimate what a good Sound quality head unit can do for your entire system. Trust me, this shiet will blow your mind.

But is the processor REALLY worth it? like i heard a guys sytem he had 1 Fi q12 same as mine, pioneer double din headunit (not sure what model) im not sure what door speakers, but he had a Q2200 running the sub and another soundqubed amp powering his speakers PLUS the Alpine PXA-H800 processor. He had a xs battery under the hood and HO singer alternator. and honestly i did not think his system was all that. His system was probably worth $4K and it sounded (to me) like something i could buy at the swap meet for $500
perfect example of someone who does not know how to tune their system properly, like i said, learning how to use a sound processor to the best of its abilities would sometimes take professional tuning to get it right.

save yourself the hassle and start with a good head unit first. Take your pick of the high end alpine 149bt, pioneer80prs or kenwood's kdc x998.

 
I should also mention, if you want anything great out of your speakers or ANY speakers for that matter, you might want to get an amp for them, does wonders for the midrange and midbass. grab some ppi black ice 800.4 or phantom 900.4 amps or if you dont care for going active. grab a ppi ion520.4

 
I should also mention, if you want anything great out of your speakers or ANY speakers for that matter, you might want to get an amp for them, does wonders for the midrange and midbass. grab some ppi black ice 800.4 or phantom 900.4 amps or if you dont care for going active. grab a ppi ion520.4
Cool so ima look into those 3 headunits to see whoch best fits my needs, money isnt really an issue ima build little by little but i just dont want to spend 4k and its all money thrown away. Also for the speakers and amps what speakers do you guys recommend i am going to power them with am amp and i was thinking the ppi ive seen and heard alot of good about the black ice series amps.

 
Your gonna need to make 6.5 mdf baffles to fit 6.5 speakers to open yourself up to a better selection of speakers.

mid tier great sounding sets:

image dynamics CTS 6.5s are midbassy

Jbl ms62 have plenty of midrange but can sound bright to some with the aluminium tweets(they sound much MUCH better then those type S silk domes though) There's also several attenuation options you can do to the tweeters on the crossovers to make it less bright.

Jl audio C5s (dont buy em at retail price should be in the same price range as the first two sets i listed, Buy used if possible) They are very smooth and evened out for a mid range set, very pleasing to the ears

For higher end needs:

hertz hsk, dynaudio or dls stuff is great, maybe focal if you like very bright sound.

One major thing I want to point out, You have to properly treat your doors to get any decent midrange or midbass out of them. You see subs have to be in an enclosure right? well speakers have to be in one too and your door is its enclosure, start by sealing the gaps and doing techniques to absorb the rear waves. Hit up Keep_Hope_Alive's honda Accord build log in the build log section of the forum, you'll learn a lot on how to make speakers sound amazing with midbass from 6.5 speakers that will punch you in the chest.

 
Your gonna need to make 6.5 mdf baffles to fit 6.5 speakers to open yourself up to a better selection of speakers.
mid tier great sounding sets:

image dynamics CTS 6.5s are midbassy

Jbl ms62 have plenty of midrange but can sound bright to some with the aluminium tweets(they sound much MUCH better then those type S silk domes though) There's also several attenuation options you can do to the tweeters on the crossovers to make it less bright.

Jl audio C5s (dont buy em at retail price should be in the same price range as the first two sets i listed, Buy used if possible) They are very smooth and evened out for a mid range set, very pleasing to the ears

For higher end needs:

hertz hsk, dynaudio or dls stuff is great, maybe focal if you like very bright sound.

One major thing I want to point out, You have to properly treat your doors to get any decent midrange or midbass out of them. You see subs have to be in an enclosure right? well speakers have to be in one too and your door is its enclosure, start by sealing the gaps and doing techniques to absorb the rear waves. Hit up Keep_Hope_Alive's honda Accord build log in the build log section of the forum, you'll learn a lot on how to make speakers sound amazing with midbass from 6.5 speakers that will punch you in the chest.
Well im planning on building a center console/sub box so ima put 6x9's in there im planning on just buying 4 and getting rid of my 4x6 which are on my dash and rear pillars. This is all in a singlecab truck btw so saving space is crucial. What excatly do you mean by "bright sound"?

 
if you are using 4x6 right now, getting a good 6.5 in there will be a huge challenge.

there is only so much a 4x6 speaker can do and no one makes a high quality version. best option for stock locations is a 4x6 plate 2-way component with separate midbass.

or remove metal, modify the door panel, and get something really nice.

 
if you are using 4x6 right now, getting a good 6.5 in there will be a huge challenge.
there is only so much a 4x6 speaker can do and no one makes a high quality version. best option for stock locations is a 4x6 plate 2-way component with separate midbass.

or remove metal, modify the door panel, and get something really nice.
id be willing to modify my door and remove some metal and build a little adapter for some nice 6.5s what would you recommend? Im completely lost on the wole active and passive thing, which one can i put an amp to and which one cant i? Or do they both take amps?

 
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