Moving to SQ...updating everything. Advice?

[mobeious 10+ year member]

ok here ya go... alpine F#1 990 with the controler unit ...then depending if u want to run 3way

zapco DC1100.4 for the midbass, zapco DC1100.4 for mid and tweet and a DC 1000.1 for the sub... ID max would be a good choice for sub ... then maybe the dyn estotech 3way for the front

all in all u should be just shy of $10k

 

[headshok 10+ year member]

I have only had my tempos a couple months, and want them dotech, maybe even up it to the hybrids.. Elates are evil.

haha,

u aint heard the Supremos yet man.

the shop i hang ard deals with morel's full range, have heard the limited edition elates( pretty good), but the supremos are awesome!

my cousin has one of the coolest 3 way systems ard.

he's using the full F1 headunit + processor,

the supremo picollo tweets, supremo 5" as a mid range on the A pillars, and the 9" supremo woofer in the door.

plus he has a 10" slim sub in the centre console ( drives an MPV)

anyway,

for the sub,

IDmaxs are COOL too! prob a lot cheaper than the JLs and much easier to drive, furthermore they can be ran IB too!

i would say ditch the rear fill ( unless u have kids who want to listen to the music too or something )

put money into ur deck, amps and spkrs.. heheh

 

[wvufootball 10+ year member]

I'm not sure if it will have the low end you desire, but what about a 13w6? Would fit the sq part. Or are you more interested in a fat bottom end complemented by well powered comps?

 

[B&R Innovation2 10+ year member]

Hey guys, lots of tips in 12 hours or so. I'll check it all out when I get off work this evening.

quickly though,

About the read deck...I could give a rat's ass about rear fill. It is, as it always has been, a back seat rider necessity. I'd be happy putting some midbass in that deck but it'd depend on my hu's timing delay functions.

About 3ways, since I wont' have this car as the 'permanent' fixture for the setup...rather avoid cutting too much metal and I certainly want to stay away from glass.

I also notice the term 'active' thrown around a lot these days. Are you talking about having an active preamp device?

 

[DidUHearThat? 10+ year member]

No, active means seperate amp channels for the tweets than the mids, so a 2 way stereo pair of componets would need 4 amplifier channels and the crossover is infront of the amp (active), no passive crossover after the amp. The tweets get an amp channel that feeds them only high frequencies, and the mids get only mid frequencies.

There are plenty of stunning sounding 2 way systems without having to go 3 way. There are also many very good passive systems, like dynaudio and high end morels. Active usually has an advantage of being able to get much louder with less distortion because the passive x-over converts alot of amp energy into heat and distortion. Active x-over skips those issues completly. Down side is you need more amp channels, and a H/U that can do active crossover; or you have to add an external active crossover inbetween the H/U and the amp. To split the frequencies before the amplifer channels.

 

[B&R Innovation2 10+ year member]

Well that's good to know. I've known folks who've had setups like this and I understand the positives but it make setup and tuning a bit trickier...at least a 2-man job.

What are the popular active-ready headunits out these days?

 

[speedfreak28 10+ year member]

ok here ya go... alpine F#1 990 with the controler unit ...then depending if u want to run 3wayzapco DC1100.4 for the midbass, zapco DC1100.4 for mid and tweet and a DC 1000.1 for the sub... ID max would be a good choice for sub ... then maybe the dyn estotech 3way for the front

all in all u should be just shy of $10k

lol SQ made easy huh?

 

[speedfreak28 10+ year member]

also, on a serious note, for the sub would be a w6v2, they get decently loud are very accurate and dont require a ton of power. Thats my pick out of the 8 subs ive had the lat year or so lol.

 

[B&R Innovation2 10+ year member]

I've never used the w6v2s, only v1s...airspace wise, will they be happy in 3cu?

 

[LaserRed38 10+ year member]

Why is tuning active a "2-man job"? The only person that is going to listen to your system (I'm guessing) is you so only you know how you're going to like it to sound. Check out the head unit section, there is a thread with all the active head units out there, old and new. Current popular choices are the Alpine 9887, Pioneer 800/880PRS and Eclipse 7200 as previously mentioned. For W7 beating SQ and equal loudness I suggest Soundsplinter products. They are very similar to older Eclipse/TC Sounds stuff...and can be found decently cheap. I'm thinking of selling my RL-p actually, but I'm not sure if it would be loud enough for you. It's a D2 from the original batch; triple stacked .75" magnets and it will handle 1000w RMS all day, and can probably take 1200 although in my ownership I've never fed it over 500. PM me if interested. It sounds awesome and gets decently loud. I'd say the RL-p could be considered a gap filler between the W6 and W7 (I've heard both sealed and W6 and my SS RL-p ported).

As far as components and head unit...I think you'll be happy going active. If you research it really is not that hard. As long as you have an east to use HU you'll be good to go. Piecing together a component system will be cheaper. I'd suggest giving the ID OEMs a try. Best $80 bucks I've ever spent on a brand new audio product. I'm only giving mine 75w but some people on here are giving them 150. Tweeters are harder to recommend I think. I'm not going to throw any out there as I'm still doing research myself. I want to try out those TBI HDSS tweeters one day though. Also look into SEAS tweeters. A lot of guys on DIYMA run them and they sound pretty decent to me in the setups I've auditoned. I've heard a lot of Hertz/Focal/Morel/Dynaudio systems, and while sounding good, I feel that just like the W7, equal or better performance can be had for a fraction of the cost if you know where to look and how to install correctly. Hope this all helps man! Good luck...

 

[speedfreak28 10+ year member]

the 12w6v2 shines in a little over 1 cube sealed so 3 is plenty, yes Jl is expensinve blah blah blah. get a pair used for half price //content.invisioncic.com/y282845/emoticons/smile.gif.1ebc41e1811405b213edfc4622c41e27.gif

 

[headless 10+ year member]

The riocar empeg has an optical output add-on, and it can play oggs flac, mp3, and has on-the-fly playlist management in-car. On top of that it's a linux box running ftp and web server and can sync via ethernet. You can pick these up with a couple 20gb drives in them for between ~200-300$ and run them to your decks digital input if you go that route.

You can only fit 5.25's? Are you sure you can't fit 6.5's with an MDF spacer? 5.25's generally are pretty lacking when it comes to meshing well with a sub setup. 3cu on a sealed 12w6 is too much space; think half that.

I'd go with a set of profi's, or vanadium cross, or power line cs if you can make them fit, for your front components. What's your budget overall? I think you'd get more for your money than, say, hertz mlk's.

A pretty rare suggestion to hear around here for substage - rainbow vanadium. They're excellent SQ drivers and are roughly equivalent to a 12w6v2 in output. They'll get kicking on ~400w RMS, too, and a pair of them is joyful on ~900w RMS and gets plenty loud while retaining excellent clarity. I like them more than my old 12w6v1, sealed in 1cf...or 1.25 if you prefer a bit louder in the low end but with sacrificing some quality of reproduction.

Also I'm pretty sure I wouldn't mind building a mobile pc unit.
If I could get a mac mini with a 3g card in it, that'd be a neat little platform if I could mold in a large touch screen display. But I wouldn't mind putting a nice little mint Linux microATX with a 3g card and digital outputs...if my HU could accept fiber. I know some of them out there do that, or at least there are some preamps with fiber inputs.

 

[audiolife 5,000+ posts]

800prs---kicker 850.5 + kicker 1000.1 or 1500.1 ---ID CX6 --IDMAX 12 or 12's

 

[systemdesignz]

Jl might be expensive but in all my past setup that I've used jl audio I always had extremely satisfying results. I've used both the old school v1's and the new v2's and I loved them equally. I hate when people knock on jl, when half of them have never even heard them to begin with.

 

[6spdcoupe 5,000+ posts]

ok here ya go... alpine F#1 990 with the controler unit ...then depending if u want to run 3wayzapco DC1100.4 for the midbass, zapco DC1100.4 for mid and tweet and a DC 1000.1 for the sub... ID max would be a good choice for sub ... then maybe the dyn estotech 3way for the front

all in all u should be just shy of $10k

That would be just plain silly. Why choose DCRefs if using a DVI-9990/H990 ?