New H/U or new Amp?

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Emvaz
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Ok, so I recently got a set of Clarus C61-2s and Feel the midbass should have more impact to it. My current setup is only sending 55w rms to each set, passive, and I feel this may be the issue. When I turn the subs off, the sound coming from the 6.5 driver is underwhelming. My initial thoughts were to get a 4-channel amp and send 100w rms to each speaker, and then get some type of processor to switch to active crossover. This seemed like an obvious solution to me, so I went to my audio place and spoke with some guys there. They seemed to think the best way to fix the problem is to switch head units, and didn't even really address my initial idea. The current unit I have now is a Kenwood KIV-BT900, which is fully digital and does not play CDs. I have my iPod hardwired into the back of the head unit, which it charges and can play audio and video through (the cable plugs into the big connector on the bottom of the ipod, not the headphone jack). If I carried around all the music I own in CD format it would be like 3 massive cases full and would probably weigh 80 lbs. It would probably take months to convert everything I have digitally onto CDs (and since I'd be burning them from an already compressed format wouldn't this defeat the purpose?).

Plus, the iPod is just so dang quick and convenient, and I would really prefer to not have to go back to the old way to tediously flipping through my compendium of CDs. While I am fully aware that the recording quality off of a CD is better than any compressed format, is this really addressing the issue? I try to buy good quality MP3s in 320 mbps format, and don't rip the music from torrents. The quality of the sound was never the issue (My current head unit sounds pretty good to me, especially compared to my last one even when it was playing CDs. I'm just lacking punch on the higher end bass notes).

One of the things the guy at the shop said to me was that my head unit preamp voltage probably was too low and cited his Pioneer deck with 4 volts. I researched the specs on mine and it has the same 4v preamp, so thats not the issue.

So should I proceed with my initial plan of switching active and adding more power from a higher quality amp, or do I really need to go back to the old, time-wasting way and buy a regular CD player?

And yes, I have properly deadened and sealed my doors, thanks //content.invisioncic.com/y282845/emoticons/smile.gif.1ebc41e1811405b213edfc4622c41e27.gif

 
You are not the first person to say that the HAT Clarus have underwhelming midbass. If your doors are already sealed and deadened and you are currently running 55w to each set passively, then I'd definitely say you have something to gain from going active and adding more power. Also check the phase on each mid and make sure they are in phase. Flip the phase on one mid and see what happens to the midbass.

Also, as for the HU, the only reason I could see to change it is to get one with T/A and more EQ capabilities but your pre outs are not the issue here. That sounds like some advice I'd hear locally.

 
When you say "in phase" you basically mean that the wires are hooked to the correct terminals, right? I hope thats not the issue...I had them professionally installed by a reputable place.

If I went with a

JBL MS-8 for processing, would this negate the headunit's built-in crossover and eq?

 
When you say "in phase" you basically mean that the wires are hooked to the correct terminals, right? I hope thats not the issue...I had them professionally installed by a reputable place.

 
Yes, pos wire to pos and neg to neg. is "in phase". But they can be get mixed up during an install. It happens man, it won't hurt the equipment. A quick way to test it is to move your head to the center of the vehicle with the music playing. If the midbass performance increases then you have a phasing issue. I'm not saying this is the definite cause but its something that's easy to check as it has happened to me before.

 
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Emvaz

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