peel & seal

Can't fight rocket science (or rocket scientists). //content.invisioncic.com/y282845/emoticons/tongue.gif.6130eb82179565f6db8d26d6001dcd24.gif

 
if u go on p n s website u can find authorized dealers.... i didn't buy the small rolls from home depot... i bought a 100 sqft roll from a roofing supply store. it was probably 3-4 feet wide.

some of them even have different colored backing which isn't bad if u put on something like a trunk lid were it has no carpeted cover.

 
When people say it works, do they just mean that it's staying stuck on?
i gained on the meter and it stayed stuck on just fine you have to clean and scratch surface for good results. i know several people who used it with gains. my old style dynomat did not work as well and came off.

 
Here's the definitive guide. I used to work at NASA. PnS is all we use.
PnS works awesome for the money.

Heat it up first. Real deadner needs to be hot before it goes down.

Use mulitple layers. More is better. You can never have enough. Mass is most important.

Real deadner has that enticing "tar' effervescence. You you know it's working cause you can smell it working.

Cover all sheet metal completely. 100% coverage is really 200% coverage if you understand damping kinmatics.

All peal-n-seal is created equal. All deader is is just peal-n-seal. Buy the cheapest. Don't get fooled by rip off products.

PM if you need anymore tips. I got tons.


Guys if you can sift through this horseshit you are on the wrong fourm

 
As always, you have to define what you are trying to accomplish. Claims of a fraction of a decibel increase, despite being just as likely cause by a change in temperature or barometric pressure or a dozen other unrelated factors, if true are proof that these materials don't work as a vibration damper. An effective vibration damper will decrease pure SPL because some sound energy will be converted to heat. If you are only interested in numbers on a meter there are better ways to brace a panel - although relatively stiff asphalt materials might help a little bit for those who are willing to risk product failure and aren't willing to do the harder work that will return larger gains.

Similarly, claims about reducing rattles don't really tell us anything about the effectiveness of a vibration damper. If two adjacent parts are making intermittent contact when vibrating, duct tape will work just as well.

Use a vibration damper when you are concerned about noise - to prevent sound transmission through the vehicle's structure and to prevent the distortion to your music that occurs when vehicle panels resonate and reinforce the sound at those panel's resonant frequencies. If you need a vibration damper for either of these reasons, or if you care about the long term stability of the things you put in your car, asphalt isn't a good choice. Asphalt is a terrible vibration damper and it has a very high failure rate in cars.

 
As always, you have to define what you are trying to accomplish. Claims of a fraction of a decibel increase, despite being just as likely cause by a change in temperature or barometric pressure or a dozen other unrelated factors, if true are proof that these materials don't work as a vibration damper. An effective vibration damper will decrease pure SPL because some sound energy will be converted to heat. If you are only interested in numbers on a meter there are better ways to brace a panel - although relatively stiff asphalt materials might help a little bit for those who are willing to risk product failure and aren't willing to do the harder work that will return larger gains.
Similarly, claims about reducing rattles don't really tell us anything about the effectiveness of a vibration damper. If two adjacent parts are making intermittent contact when vibrating, duct tape will work just as well.

Use a vibration damper when you are concerned about noise - to prevent sound transmission through the vehicle's structure and to prevent the distortion to your music that occurs when vehicle panels resonate and reinforce the sound at those panel's resonant frequencies. If you need a vibration damper for either of these reasons, or if you care about the long term stability of the things you put in your car, asphalt isn't a good choice. Asphalt is a terrible vibration damper and it has a very high failure rate in cars.
For those that didn't know, this is the owner of the "cockamamie snake oil bullshit" site I linked to.

 
If I chewed hundreds of double bubbles, and then applied them to my panels, would they be beneficial? //content.invisioncic.com/y282845/emoticons/confused.gif.e820e0216602db4765798ac39d28caa9.gif

 
For those that didn't know, this is the owner of the "cockamamie snake oil bullshit" site I linked to.
You mean like the link in my sig? //content.invisioncic.com/y282845/emoticons/wink.gif.608e3ea05f1a9f98611af0861652f8fb.gif

There are over 276 threads on PnS on this forum. How many times has Rudy, myself or others completely dismissed any anecdotal claims about the effectiveness of mylar-covered asphalt as a damper?

This used to be kind of a fun forum. Was waiting to get into it with BigBangFatMat or something. Instead it's just a guy who rides the short bus here that can't sense sarcasm even when it's laid down thicker than 2" of Protecto Wrap. //content.invisioncic.com/y282845/emoticons/crap.gif.7f4dd41e3e9b23fbd170a1ee6f65cecc.gif

 
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