Sound deadening

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filly4thirteen

CarAudio.com Recruit
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how important is it to do some deadening while they have my truck apart doing the install. It’s a 2021 Chevy crew cab. Under the back seat enclosure with 2 jl subs. And an amp rack on the back wall. Would it be beneficial to do some deadening on the floor and back wall. When I have them do the door and dash speakers I’ll address the deadening there at that time. Thanks in advance!!
 
how important is it to do some deadening while they have my truck apart doing the install. It’s a 2021 Chevy crew cab. Under the back seat enclosure with 2 jl subs. And an amp rack on the back wall. Would it be beneficial to do some deadening on the floor and back wall. When I have them do the door and dash speakers I’ll address the deadening there at that time. Thanks in advance!!
It's VERY important. Volume to the ear is perceived to be doubled at roughly 9-10 db increases in output. Now, how that works (or is overcome by) just power.

Take a 100 watt per channel amp ( all other things remaining equal/constant) with the intention of doubling the perceived volume.

100 to 200, 3 db increase.
200 to 400, another 3 db increase
400 to 800, another 3 db increase or very close to a perceived doubling of the volume.

Why is that important?

People will often try to 'wattage" out or use power to overcome the noise with that additional power. First, if you could find an 800 watt per channel amp, it would likely cost several thousand dollars not to mention the array of speakers (another several thousand dollars) to utilize all that power.

That said,

While a single layer of half-mil thick butyl rubber applied randomly around a vehicle may only lower interior noise levels by 2-3 decibels (dB). A professional 3M DBA or Resonix installation is capable of an 8-12dB reduction in average road noise levels inside the vehicle cabin.

So multi-thousands to overcome noise through output that drowns out (does not eliminate) noise or $250 to $750 to eliminate it in the first place and have that 100 watt per channel play like it is a 800 watt per channel system in a noisy car.

Kind of puts it into perspective, don't it?

;)
 
Last edited:
It's VERY important. Volume to the ear is perceived to be doubled at roughly 9-10 db increases in output. Now, how that works (or is overcome by) just power.

Take a 100 watt per channel amp ( all other things remaining equal/constant) with the intention of doubling the perceived volume.

100 to 200, 3 db increase.
200 to 400, another 3 db increase
400 to 800, another 3 db increase or very close to a perceived doubling of the volume.

Why is that important?

People will often try to 'wattage" out or use power to overcome the noise with that additional power. First, if you could find an 800 watt per channel amp, it would likely cost several thousand dollars not to mention the array of speakers (another several thousand dollars) to utilize all that power.

That said,

While a single layer of half-mil thick butyl rubber applied randomly around a vehicle may only lower interior noise levels by 2-3 decibels (dB). A professional 3M DBA or Resonix installation is capable of an 8-12dB reduction in average road noise levels inside the vehicle cabin.

So multi-thousands to overcome noise through output that drowns out (does not eliminate) noise or $250 to $750 to eliminate it in the first place and have that 100 watt per channel play like it is a 800 watt per channel system in a noisy car.

Kind of puts it into perspective, don't it?

;)
 
Thanks for the nice read!! I’m having them do where they can while they are installing the box and amp rack and will do the rest when I get the money to do my mids and highs. I’m so pumped that I can barely sleep. A grown man at the ripe age of 39 really feels young again when I hear that base. Difference is back at 19 I could only afford the cheap stuff, now I’m willing to spend the coin on my work vehicle because well it’s a necessity in my field of work 😂. Or so I tell my wife that. I will say this… I’m glad I didt go with the mojo set up or the Godzilla woofer. Im terrible ocd (diagnosed) and I have trouble with always second guessing my decision . I jist
Hope I don’t regret this lol
 
Thanks for the nice read!! I’m having them do where they can while they are installing the box and amp rack and will do the rest when I get the money to do my mids and highs. I’m so pumped that I can barely sleep. A grown man at the ripe age of 39 really feels young again when I hear that base. Difference is back at 19 I could only afford the cheap stuff, now I’m willing to spend the coin on my work vehicle because well it’s a necessity in my field of work 😂. Or so I tell my wife that. I will say this… I’m glad I didt go with the mojo set up or the Godzilla woofer. Im terrible ocd (diagnosed) and I have trouble with always second guessing my decision . I jist
Hope I don’t regret this lol
Well, this young man (63) is embarking on my dream system (over the next 6 months) as well! Never gets old, just gets better, unlike age itself that DOES get old and does not get better!

JL makes great gear, often a bit pricey comparatively, but solid. There low-profile subs are some of the better units out there. Enjoy!
 
Well, this young man (63) is embarking on my dream system (over the next 6 months) as well! Never gets old, just gets better, unlike age itself that DOES get old and does not get better!

JL makes great gear, often a bit pricey comparatively, but solid. There low-profile subs are some of the better units out there. Enjoy!
What all are you doing?
 
What all are you doing?
Well, my Mazda 3 project is in progress - and the gear is all hear:

Kenwood eXcelon Reference (XR) DDX9905S DVD receiver
AudioControl DM-810 DSP
Stereo Integrity SIQ 125.4 for the mids and tweeters
Stereo Integrity SIQ 75.4 Bridged for the front midbass
Focal FDP 600.4 (or Soundigital 1200.4 EVOPS) for rear fill glass/carbon 6x9's and silk tweeters passive/active
Soundigital EVOPS 2400.1 2 ohm 2400 watt x 1

Front Stage
CDT ES1200is tweeters in sail pods
Karma Aspect 3 – 3 Inch Midrange Speakers in customer 1.1L pods
HD-M6 Glass fiber/Kevlar 6.5" midbass

Rear Fill
CDT ES-0690 GOLD 6x9 carbon fiber 6x9 mid woofers
CDT ES1200is tweeters

Subs
Dual Focal 33V2 13" polyglass SQ subs in a 3.44 acousta-stuf - stuffed sealed enclosure

Resonix foam Barrier pads and speaker strips
NVX Butyl foam treatment pads
SIles 50ml, 80ml and120ml butyl dampening/deadening

Big three upgrade
Stock Alt
2/0 runs from front to back

Bosch hi performance AGM under the hood
Recoil 500A remote control (on/off) isolatore (cause I want to)
Glow Voltage Series 1 Lithium Bank in the rear
 

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Well, my Mazda 3 project is in progress - and the gear is all hear:

Kenwood eXcelon Reference (XR) DDX9905S DVD receiver
AudioControl DM-810 DSP
Stereo Integrity SIQ 125.4 for the mids and tweeters
Stereo Integrity SIQ 75.4 Bridged for the front midbass
Focal FDP 600.4 (or Soundigital 1200.4 EVOPS) for rear fill glass/carbon 6x9's and silk tweeters passive/active
Soundigital EVOPS 2400.1 2 ohm 2400 watt x 1

Front Stage
CDT ES1200is tweeters in sail pods
Karma Aspect 3 – 3 Inch Midrange Speakers in customer 1.1L pods
HD-M6 Glass fiber/Kevlar 6.5" midbass

Rear Fill
CDT ES-0690 GOLD 6x9 carbon fiber 6x9 mid woofers
CDT ES1200is tweeters

Subs
Dual Focal 33V2 13" polyglass SQ subs in a 3.44 acousta-stuf - stuffed sealed enclosure

Resonix foam Barrier pads and speaker strips
NVX Butyl foam treatment pads
SIles 50ml, 80ml and120ml butyl dampening/deadening

Big three upgrade
Stock Alt
2/0 runs from front to back

Bosch hi performance AGM under the hood
Recoil 500A remote control (on/off) isolatore (cause I want to)
Glow Voltage Series 1 Lithium Bank in the rear
Very nice man! You seem about 99.99% more intelligent then me on this topic lol
 
Very nice man! You seem about 99.99% more intelligent then me on this topic lol
Do you have any suggestions on door and dash speakers once I decide to get into that part.? The sales man was kinda leaning me away from JL components. he suggested the tw3 series simply because of the box from mti and the shallow mount but I was getting the gist he was saying I could get more bang for my buck going with something else. I just like the idea of have all the same brand. But then again, I am very OCD when it comes to this stuff. He suggested doing all my components at once but installing the subs and amps in a way that I will be doing the rest shortly. As in keeping room and a place for everything
 
Do you have any suggestions on door and dash speakers once I decide to get into that part.? The sales man was kinda leaning me away from JL components. he suggested the tw3 series simply because of the box from mti and the shallow mount but I was getting the gist he was saying I could get more bang for my buck going with something else. I just like the idea of have all the same brand. But then again, I am very OCD when it comes to this stuff. He suggested doing all my components at once but installing the subs and amps in a way that I will be doing the rest shortly. As in keeping room and a place for everything
Jl makes very good stuff but they're very proud of it too 🤭 but the rep is right you can do as good or better for less
 
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filly4thirteen

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