System Progress -- 56k watch out!

D series makes me sad.
Everyone says that... I'm not dropping the money into a swap at this time. The forced induction option was actually my most cost effective option. $1100 for the kit and about $600 in other parts (exhaust, injectors, etc) and I'll have at LEAST 150 WHP, more likely more than that.

Also way easier than a swap //content.invisioncic.com/y282845/emoticons/smile.gif.1ebc41e1811405b213edfc4622c41e27.gif

Not that I wouldn't like to do a swap later, it's just not an option right now since I am ALSO building a stereo system. Which isn't cheap.

 
Any layout plans so far ? Obviously you want to showcase the amps //content.invisioncic.com/y282845/emoticons/yumyum.gif.0556df42231b304b9c995aefd13928a8.gif Plexi bottoms ? Flanking the sub on each side maybe //content.invisioncic.com/y282845/emoticons/smile.gif.1ebc41e1811405b213edfc4622c41e27.gif
Plexi sounds good... may look into it //content.invisioncic.com/y282845/emoticons/smile.gif.1ebc41e1811405b213edfc4622c41e27.gif

Nothing drawn up yet... I want to get the rear battery mounted and see where that leaves me first.

 
Everyone says that... I'm not dropping the money into a swap at this time. The forced induction option was actually my most cost effective option. $1100 for the kit and about $600 in other parts (exhaust, injectors, etc) and I'll have at LEAST 150 WHP, more likely more than that.
Also way easier than a swap //content.invisioncic.com/y282845/emoticons/smile.gif.1ebc41e1811405b213edfc4622c41e27.gif

Not that I wouldn't like to do a swap later, it's just not an option right now since I am ALSO building a stereo system. Which isn't cheap.
True. If you where looking for a little more performance than what you've stated then B-Series would have been the way to go. A a couple grand more money and a lot more time would have gotten you a little more to the ground N/A with a B-Series. But the time time to build one from a block up, mating her to a tranny, and modifying the motor mounts is a lot more than, and takes a lot more tools and know how than putting a low boost turbo on the stock motor.

If it doesnt get you what you are looking for after a few more upgrades I would say hit the junk yard for a trasshed integra and snatch the motor and tranny out of it. As you work on the audio end some more build that block up and when it comes time, sell the turbo and all at a loss and put in a good NA B-Series with a decent bottom end with a little lower compression ratio for a turbo once you get the money. Or modify your current turbo kit to feed a B-Series. //content.invisioncic.com/y282845/emoticons/naughty.gif.94359f346c0f1259df8038d60b41863e.gif

I helped a friend do a built NA B18 into a CRX. It was QUICK. If two high school kids could throw it togather and get her moving reliably I'm sure an electrical engineer can handle it. //content.invisioncic.com/y282845/emoticons/smile.gif.1ebc41e1811405b213edfc4622c41e27.gif

Or just save a real good ammount of money and get an H-Series block. //content.invisioncic.com/y282845/emoticons/naughty.gif.94359f346c0f1259df8038d60b41863e.gif

 
My point was that you are good to go now with what you have, but rather than build a d-series motor that will struggle to make power, a swap would be the better choice once you get around to needing a rebuild. Used motors can be found for less than a grand most places (wrecking yards, japanese motors) with 30k or so on them and would bolt up to your current trans and you can buy the mounts and such from a company like Hasport. It's really pretty straightforward- b16/18 swaps are well researched and common. An H22 would be more powerful (prelude motor) but more costly, and height may be an issue. If you wanted to be the shiznit, a k-series swap would be the bomb. Anyway, when you want to have a thread about your future engine plans, let me know and I'll do everything I can to talk you out of spending any more than you have on that lame single cam. I'll shut up now so you can get back to your thread.

 
It all depends on money. If I have some excess I'll do a swap instead of a rebuild... if not I'll rebuild and swap later. I really don't spend much money from Sundown Audio unless I have to, even on the demo car //content.invisioncic.com/y282845/emoticons/smile.gif.1ebc41e1811405b213edfc4622c41e27.gif Saving most of it for future products and building most of this project with my own funds.

 
My point was that you are good to go now with what you have, but rather than build a d-series motor that will struggle to make power, a swap would be the better choice once you get around to needing a rebuild. Used motors can be found for less than a grand most places (wrecking yards, japanese motors) with 30k or so on them and would bolt up to your current trans and you can buy the mounts and such from a company like Hasport. It's really pretty straightforward- b16/18 swaps are well researched and common. An H22 would be more powerful (prelude motor) but more costly, and height may be an issue. If you wanted to be the shiznit, a k-series swap would be the bomb. Anyway, when you want to have a thread about your future engine plans, let me know and I'll do everything I can to talk you out of spending any more than you have on that lame single cam. I'll shut up now so you can get back to your thread.
Why would you go from a stock motor to a slightly better stock motor? I do not see the logic in this. I'm not meaning this as an insult to you. Muscle car guys and import guys alike. why buy a stock big block motor and put it in your comaro when it is just a minor upgrade from a built small block. The same applies here.

IMO, if you are going to do a swap start from the ground up only salvageing the block and things that wont increase performance or brake when it comes to something like the B-Series where parts are as cheap as candy. You can buy a B-series engine/block in GREAT condition that has had a good ammount of time to get worked in for $1000. (actually stronger than a $1500 freshly cast aftermarket block and more durablewith a greater margin for error than a $2400 aluminum block)

You can build a B-Series putting over 200hp to the crank reliably NA for a decently small chunk of change.

 
You go with the slightly better stock motor because of this. The stock "big block" (B series stuff from Honda in comparison) is a better platform to build on and is more abuse tolerant and easier to upgrade later. Rather then the D series of stuff.

 
You go with the slightly better stock motor because of this. The stock "big block" (B series stuff from Honda in comparison) is a better platform to build on and is more abuse tolerant and easier to upgrade later. Rather then the D series of stuff.
Always somewhere talkin bout sum enjins:veryhapp:

 
Why would you go from a stock motor to a slightly better stock motor? I do not see the logic in this. I'm not meaning this as an insult to you. Muscle car guys and import guys alike. why buy a stock big block motor and put it in your comaro when it is just a minor upgrade from a built small block. The same applies here.
IMO, if you are going to do a swap start from the ground up only salvageing the block and things that wont increase performance or brake when it comes to something like the B-Series where parts are as cheap as candy. You can buy a B-series engine/block in GREAT condition that has had a good ammount of time to get worked in for $1000. (actually stronger than a $1500 freshly cast aftermarket block and more durablewith a greater margin for error than a $2400 aluminum block)

You can build a B-Series putting over 200hp to the crank reliably NA for a decently small chunk of change.
There is no comparison from a twin cam b-series and the d series- a fully build d- series will be slightly more powerful than a stock b-series- that is why I advocate the swap, for the cash the swap makes more sense- $1000 to rebuild a d-series or for about the same you can get a motor that makes more power to begin with and has way more potential.

 
On the topic of the system:

I finished the side-wall expanding foam finally... I'm working on putting some interior back in and my carpet will be in shortly. Some second skin Heatwave is going in under the new carpet... which I also got with the optional rubber mass backing //content.invisioncic.com/y282845/emoticons/smile.gif.1ebc41e1811405b213edfc4622c41e27.gif

I am using lots of Second Skin Rattle Pad, Edead V4, and stuffing carpet padding behind all of my panels. I picked up some Rug "no slip" tape, double sided cloth carpet tape, and some high heat duct tape to put in between panels and metal to help with squeaking and rattling in that regard.

I also ran three screws through the little panel on my hatch door since it was rattling with no system at all. I was seeing lots of rattling in it's future so I'm trying to head it off at the pass.

Contemplating two 15s again... I'll be able to decide more once I start mounting the batteries and see how the floor develops.

New update pics coming soon.

 
Looking forward to more pics sir //content.invisioncic.com/y282845/emoticons/smile.gif.1ebc41e1811405b213edfc4622c41e27.gif Got an off topic question though //content.invisioncic.com/y282845/emoticons/biggrin.gif.d71a5d36fcbab170f2364c9f2e3946cb.gif What are the dimensions of the bottom panel on the saz1500d ? Is it 17" x 9" or slightly smaller ? Gonna use the plexi bottom most likely in an install with an ms1000 as the focal point . Thinking we might as well flip the sundown over as well //content.invisioncic.com/y282845/emoticons/smile.gif.1ebc41e1811405b213edfc4622c41e27.gif

 
Reading it makes me want to hear it when its done. Go ahead and join the 2 15's club man. //content.invisioncic.com/y282845/emoticons/biggrin.gif.d71a5d36fcbab170f2364c9f2e3946cb.gif

 
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