Volume decrease when I turn it up loud

[wew lad 5,000+ posts]

Get your battery load tested, it's free at any auto store. if its going bad and cant hold load it will starve your amps.

honestly it sounds like there's something else wrong, even when you drop from 14v to 12v the difference is barely audible - to me at least. it'd have to be a serious starvation of power to lose that much output

 

[audiobaun 5,000+ posts]

What do I do with the ELD? I see some stuff about it for Honda civics? I need to bypass it or something? Maybe I'll eventually get a battery in the back too but would rather avoid that if possible. It doesn't look cheap.

I think the ELD issue pertains pretty much to Hondas, though, cant say for sure in all vehicles.I dont think that Camry has that issue,or that Ive ever heard of or experienced.I think you will be just fine with a good AGM under the hood with that big 3 done..Going more than 1200+ rms and experiencing voltage issues is when you will need to look towards electrical upgrades as needed(larger power wiring,more runs,larger alt/alts,and series of batts,ect.) You should be just fine with a good AGM under the hood with your big 3 with your system

 

---------- Post added at 11:27 AM ---------- Previous post was at 11:27 AM ----------

 

What do I do with the ELD? I see some stuff about it for Honda civics? I need to bypass it or something? Maybe I'll eventually get a battery in the back too but would rather avoid that if possible. It doesn't look cheap.

Double Post!..LOL

 

[audiobaun 5,000+ posts]

Get your battery load tested, it's free at any auto store. if its going bad and cant hold load it will starve your amps.
honestly it sounds like there's something else wrong, even when you drop from 14v to 12v the difference is barely audible - to me at least. it'd have to be a serious starvation of power to lose that much output

I wonder if that alt is getting worn out also? Could be getting old and wearing out too?

 

[jwark]

Ok thanks for all the things to try. I think I'm going to start with a good AGM battery and go from there. The thing is that my battery will literally last for 2 minutes with the stereo on and completely drain my battery if the car is not running so I think it is starting to go bad. I will get it load tested first, though. Possibly could be my alternator I guess too.

 

[michaellane 5,000+ posts]

Ok thanks for all the things to try. I think I'm going to start with a good AGM battery and go from there. The thing is that my battery will literally last for 2 minutes with the stereo on and completely drain my battery if the car is not running so I think it is starting to go bad. I will get it load tested first, though. Possibly could be my alternator I guess too.

If you need a battery for the back let me know. I can help you out really cheap. And its not expensive. Just run the power wire to the batt in the back then from the battery to the amp. So you may need a little bit more wire but thats it. The rebadged deka batts are a group 78. I didnt look at whT car you have but it may fit upfront. They sell adapter kits for side post batts if you want it up front in the stock location. Or I have small batts you can use for the back also. So you are looki g at 90-120 shipped to fix your voktage issue

 

[jwark]

I tested the alternator, at least the only test I know how to do. It's putting out 14.1 volts with everything turned off. I turned on headlights, AC, and stereo and it just stayed at 14.1 volts. Not really sure what that means but it seems like it's putting out a good amount of voltage.

 

[wew lad 5,000+ posts]

I wonder if that alt is getting worn out also? Could be getting old and wearing out too?

I'm not really sure that alternators wear out, maybe they do lose some output due to grease, dirt, and other crap that gets in there (the alt i pulled off my truck is dirty as hell) but it's either a failure or not. A diode can go bad, causing terrible noise (ac ripple?) in the power output. Another option is the voltage regulator failing and the alternator charging too high or not at all, lots of possibilities but i feel like it'd be present all the time.

considering he said his battery dies very fast after turning the car off make me think that it's dead, all it holds is a surface charge and as soon as his alternator is tapped out for power his batt is too lol

you can get the alt tested at a local small mom and pops alternator shop, but i feel like it'll test fine - get that battery load tested.

 

[audiobaun 5,000+ posts]

I tested the alternator, at least the only test I know how to do. It's putting out 14.1 volts with everything turned off. I turned on headlights, AC, and stereo and it just stayed at 14.1 volts. Not really sure what that means but it seems like it's putting out a good amount of voltage.

Thats good voltage..Your battery is prob the only thing that isnt keeping up with the demand/draining quickly..A good AGM will help with that issue.Just keep in mind.. It takes power to make power..so sitting at long periods of time running the stereo without the vehicle running..drains the batt, and starves the amps supply needs to perform..A stock radio,and most without amplification draw less voltage/current than the amps that need more amperage/and current that you have installed now.

 

[jwark]

If you need a battery for the back let me know. I can help you out really cheap. And its not expensive. Just run the power wire to the batt in the back then from the battery to the amp. So you may need a little bit more wire but thats it. The rebadged deka batts are a group 78. I didnt look at whT car you have but it may fit upfront. They sell adapter kits for side post batts if you want it up front in the stock location. Or I have small batts you can use for the back also. So you are looki g at 90-120 shipped to fix your voktage issue

That wire is not cheap, what gauge are you using? Also I thought you needed an isolator?

 

[jwark]

I'm also a little confused by the batteries. All the Sams clubs by me do not sell them. It looks like oreillys does have them but there are many different models. Is there one that would be ideal specifically?

How about this one? Super Start Platinum 34RPLT - Battery | O'Reilly Auto Parts

 

[wew lad 5,000+ posts]

He's saying use your current power wire and instead of connecting it to your amp, connect it to the second battery. then from the second battery in the back already near your amp, run a power wire from the second batt to your amp.

you're correct, you do want a battery isolator. however, if you use two similar batteries - i.e. both AGM made by the same manufacturer with similar ratings and similar age, you don't need one. i have two of the 55ah east penn batts in parallel, if i got dissimilar batteries i would of used a relay/isolator.

when you run batteries in parallel you need a fuse within 18 inches of each battery

look at your factory battery and how it mounts, determine what group it is, then look for that group of battery.

 

[audiobaun 5,000+ posts]

I'm also a little confused by the batteries. All the Sams clubs by me do not sell them. It looks like oreillys does have them but there are many different models. Is there one that would be ideal specifically?
How about this one? Super Start Platinum 34RPLT - Battery | O'Reilly Auto Parts

Thats the one I use..Great battery..

 

[wew lad 5,000+ posts]

just for reference... this is what the top of the deka looks like. almost exactly like the superstart, and also duracell lol

whoever made these batts so cheap and awesome should get a medal.

 

[audiobaun 5,000+ posts]

just for reference... this is what the top of the deka looks like. almost exactly like the superstart, and also duracell lol
whoever made these batts so cheap and awesome should get a medal.

Dammned cant see the pic..lol

 

[audiobaun 5,000+ posts]

I actually need approx 3 more batts installed (total of 6) to serve my next build in my truck..I may even need a larger alt as well..We will see how it goes