20007+ GM Truck Electical Upgrade Thread. I stop when dimming stops.

[badstang123 10+ year member]

Wow, I just ordered a Kinetic HC1800 from Dealer Cost Car Audio, I hope I get one of the newer ones!!

If you have the problem mail them and they will send you a new sticker. Or put a little vent hole with an exacto knife like I did

 

[loopkiller 10+ year member]

It sounds like the stickers are just a little too big and are trapping the minor gas that vents from the battery during charging. I am sure looking at a big bubble on the top of your battery *****, but it is really just cosmetic and not a big issue.

 

[badstang123 10+ year member]

It sounds like the stickers are just a little too big and are trapping the minor gas that vents from the battery during charging. I am sure looking at a big bubble on the top of your battery *****, but it is really just cosmetic and not a big issue.

The battery is not supposed to gas. The tech guy there said you would lose checmicals that are part of the make-up of the battery you would never get back.

Basically what he said is the adhesive on the sticker that holds it to the battery turns to a gas when it heats up. The new stickers use a different adheesive and are fine. And it is just cosmetic and not a big issue (Except the first time you see it and you think something is going to explode in your eyes or under your hood)

 

[loopkiller 10+ year member]

The battery is not supposed to gas. The tech guy there said you would lose checmicals that are part of the make-up of the battery you would never get back.
Basically what he said is the adhesive on the sticker that holds it to the battery turns to a gas when it heats up. The new stickers use a different adheesive and are fine. And it is just cosmetic and not a big issue (Except the first time you see it and you think something is going to explode in your eyes or under your hood)

I am sure that all batteries do give off some minor amounts of gas when charging. It will be a mere fraction of the gas given off by a flooded battery, but some non the less. I can't say anything about sticker glues, but my guess is that some of the bubble was due to the nature of lead acid battery gassing. I dunno //content.invisioncic.com/y282845/emoticons/confused.gif.e820e0216602db4765798ac39d28caa9.gif

 

[badstang123 10+ year member]

Well I thought I was smart. I thought I was real smart. But over time apparently the truck was smarter. It has learned to adapt to the changes I made to the vehicles power and ground wiring and is now consistently reducing to 12.9 volts as it used to.

I guess Missing Link Audio's unit is the next logical step. It came recommended from people on here as well as the people at Kinetic.

 

[944g37 10+ year member]

im pretty sure that loop is just a built in amps clamp like you would use to test a high amp load during diagnostics. When the battery is drawing a lot of amperage from the alternator it puts out full voltage and when it is charged and there isnt as much amperage being measured at the loop it turns the regulator down. There shouldnt be anyway for it to "adapt". As long as the battery cable running through the loop is not connected to the battery or the alternator

 

[AlterEgo99 5,000+ posts]

Well, I'm VERY interested in this thread and am subscribing! I have an '08 Silverado X-Cab and it is the exact setup you are describing. And I will be performing the "Big 3" upgrade in a couple of weeks. Keep us posted! //content.invisioncic.com/y282845/emoticons/cool.gif.3bcaf8f141236c00f8044d07150e34f7.gif

 

[AlterEgo99 5,000+ posts]

In my '08 Silverado, the battery is located up against the firewall on the passenger side.

I have an empty location for another battery in the typical GM truck battery location, just behind the driver side front headlight.

The present ground from the battery is a 4 gauge wire from the negative post of the battery to the engine block. I did note the loop you are talking about that it runs through that is managing the voltage. Interesting. Had not noticed that before until you mentioned it! //content.invisioncic.com/y282845/emoticons/cool.gif.3bcaf8f141236c00f8044d07150e34f7.gif

There is also a braided ground wire from the engine block (between the rear of the block and the firewall - looks like a pain in the ass to get to!) to a bolt on the firewall. This is located to the rear of the block on the driver side. Looks a bit crappy to be honest.

So, I am curious if it is OK to remove the present ground during the "Big 3" upgrade from the battery and connect the new 0 gauge ground to the chassis instead, or should it go back to the same location on the block? And should I remove the present braided ground wire from the block to chassis and simply replace it with 0 gauge or leave it and simply supplement it with 0 gauge at the same location? Whaddya think?

 

[AlterEgo99 5,000+ posts]

In my '08 Silverado, the battery is located up against the firewall on the passenger side.
I have an empty location for another battery in the typical GM truck battery location, just behind the driver side front headlight.

The present ground from the battery is a 4 gauge wire from the negative post of the battery to the engine block. I did note the loop you are talking about that it runs through that is managing the voltage. Interesting. Had not noticed that before until you mentioned it! //content.invisioncic.com/y282845/emoticons/cool.gif.3bcaf8f141236c00f8044d07150e34f7.gif

There is also a braided ground wire from the engine block (between the rear of the block and the firewall - looks like a pain in the ass to get to!) to a bolt on the firewall. This is located to the rear of the block on the driver side. Looks a bit crappy to be honest.

So, I am curious if it is OK to remove the present ground during the "Big 3" upgrade from the battery and connect the new 0 gauge ground to the chassis instead, or should it go back to the same location on the block? And should I remove the present braided ground wire from the block to chassis and simply replace it with 0 gauge or leave it and simply supplement it with 0 gauge at the same location? Whaddya think?

Bump...anyone? Curious. //content.invisioncic.com/y282845/emoticons/help.gif.cee8f684da1ba626487a8bc51152e1ec.gif

 

[AlterEgo99 5,000+ posts]

Got some very good information on the alternator setup and how it charges for any other late model GM owners out there!

********************************************

From the 2CarPros Forum:

I would say this is very normal. Remember while the truck is sitting other things are still “slightly” drawing a little current. Plus the battery is sitting slowly going down….

So when you first start….that is normal for it to take a little more charge. Circuits are cold, many things are charging up. You use the battery to start the vehicle….that is a big draw.

Then as you use thing the alternator will cycle giving you more/less power as needed. Here is a chart to help.

The engine control module (ECM) controls the generator through the generator turn on signal. It monitors the generator performance though the generator field duty cycle signal circuit. The signal is a 5 volt pulse width modulation (PWM) signal of 128 Hz with a duty cycle of 0-100 percent. Normal duty cycle is between 5-95 percent. Between 0-5 percent and 95-100 percent are for diagnostic purposes. The following table shows the commanded duty cycle and output voltage of the generator:

Commanded Duty Cycle, Generator Output Voltage

10%, 11V

20%, 11.56V

30%, 12.12V

40%, 12.68V

50%, 13.25V

60%, 13.81V

70%, 14.37V

80%, 14.94V

90%, 15.5V

Unless you have a DTC or are experiencing some problems…….I would not be concerned.

The BCM will enter Charge Mode when ever one of the following conditions are met.

• The wipers are ON for more than 3 seconds.

• The GMLAN Climate Control Voltage Boost Mode Request is true, as sensed by the HVAC control head. High speed cooling fan, rear defogger and HVAC high speed blower operation can cause the BCM to enter the Charge Mode.

• The estimated battery temperature is less than 0°C (32°F).

• Battery state of charge is less than 80 percent.

• Vehicle speed is greater than 145 km/h (90 mph)

• Current sensor fault exists

• System voltage was determined to be below 12.56 volts

• Tow/Haul mode is enabled

When any one of these conditions is met, the system will set targeted generator output voltage to a charging voltage between 13.9-15.5 volts, depending on the battery state of charge and estimated battery temperature.

Battery Voltage Gauge Operation

The IPC displays the system voltage as received from the BCM over the GMLAN serial data circuit. If there is no communication with the BCM then the gauge will indicate minimum.

This vehicle is equipped with a regulated voltage control (RVC) system. This system turns off the generator when it is not required in order to improve fuel economy. The generator will turn back on when additional voltage is required. This will cause the voltmeter to fluctuate between 12 and 14 volts as opposed to non-regulated systems which usually maintain a more consistent reading of 14 volts. This fluctuation with the RVC system is normal system operation and NO repairs should be attempted. For max output of the alternator is 145 amp with KG3 or 160 amp with KW1, these are the RPO codes located in the glove box just check and see if it has KW1 or KG3 and that will tell you.