So fukking irrelevant to the fullest.This is a very very very simple circuit. The primary input power is switched via the ignition.
When the relay's coil has current flow it closes the contacts.
Its called a switched power supply.
The sensing wire is to regulate the alternators output and voltage.
The field wire is for a run status
The rest is history.
Its that simple. Its a ******* alternator. LolSo fukking irrelevant to the fullest.
What on earth made you come in and try so boldly to make such an idiotic post as this?
Is there not stopping the amount of non-intelligent posts you already provide daily?!?
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I sold 2 of them to Martin here and I still have 6, so I could try that.I still stand by my opinion that 6 of the SDA3 15s in a ported wall with a good design would be much louder than anything you've tried so far. There just isn't enough room inside the cab to do a bandpass with a lot of cone area while maintaining good airspace and ratios.
Our 4th order for 8 SDA3 15s is 48 cubes of airspace, not counting the displacement of the subs and the enclosure itself. It's doing a 161 (for now, we need to work on several issues robbing from the score) two Taramps Bass 12k wired at 1 ohm each, 7 d3100s, and a single 320a alternator. We gave out 100+ demos 2 Saturdays ago at Slamology with very little downtime. You can downsize your power and electrical a LOT and still be very loud and demo all day, and practical to drive daily. With a solid design, around 10k clamped should net you around a 160 with a musical wall.
He's on my ignore list, so his posts here don't really matter. I suggest you add him tooSo fukking irrelevant to the fullest.
What on earth made you come in and try so boldly to make such an idiotic post as this?
Is there not stopping the amount of non-intelligent posts you already provide daily?!?
Sent from my Z970 using Tapatalk
Yes, you want it to only energize when the car is running.ok, positive still needs to be switched so it doesn't drain batteries
That is correct.Right, is my diagram I posted correct? You've obviously used these before. I just want to be sure before I hook them up
I bought a box from US alternators that was supposed to keep voltage steady on the PCM regulated alternator I bought from them. It was basically supposed to bypass the PCM regulation without throwing a code and reducing engine power.That is correct.
Also to answer your earlier question about the 911, you want to use one 911 per external regulated alternator. You *can* run two alts per box, but it will shorten the life of the regulator. Three alts on one box won't last long at all. I had one fail on me at a show when running two alts, then swapped to one regulator per alt and never had any more issues
USAlts is in the process of making an all in one box that will control as many alternators as you need. I believe Mechman and maybe Singer have similar plans too.
Did you talk to Dan about the issue? If it was a product issue he would replace it no problem. Those modules are working on tons of vehicles without a problem.I bought a box from US alternators that was supposed to keep voltage steady on the PCM regulated alternator I bought from them. It was basically supposed to bypass the PCM regulation without throwing a code and reducing engine power.
After a couple months of troubleshooting, it never ended up working. I will not be buying anything from that company again.
You can simulate an input to the ecm......I bought a box from US alternators that was supposed to keep voltage steady on the PCM regulated alternator I bought from them. It was basically supposed to bypass the PCM regulation without throwing a code and reducing engine power.
After a couple months of troubleshooting, it never ended up working. I will not be buying anything from that company again.
It wasn't an issue of replacing it. He said someone else with an 07 had the same issue with the regulator in the alternator I bought. They were not able to solve the problem.Did you talk to Dan about the issue? If it was a product issue he would replace it no problem. Those modules are working on tons of vehicles without a problem.
U should just run one alt for trucks stock electronics and then the other three alts for the audio side seperate. That's what my buddy does in his 2011 tahoe. Works perfectIt wasn't an issue of replacing it. He said someone else with an 07 had the same issue with the regulator in the alternator I bought. They were not able to solve the problem.
Regardless, I'm going to run isolated electrical systems this time, so I won't be needing a PCM bypass box