Recommendations for slim powered underseat subwoofer 2022 Silverado

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I would never marry someone who tells me how to spend my money, but sounds like you are past that.

The best underseat box I used was MTX Thunderform. It fit perfect and sounded decent for an underseat, sealed application. See if they make a box for your application.
Well it’s not my money, it’s our money. Also it’s not a small purchase and definitely on the frivolous side. Still she is mostly supportive but expects me to make a thoughtful decision that minimizes the damage to our bank account. And I feel the same about it. It needs to be a smart purchase and the best bang for the buck.
 
Well it’s not my money, it’s our money. Also it’s not a small purchase and definitely on the frivolous side. Still she is mostly supportive but expects me to make a thoughtful decision that minimizes the damage to our bank account. And I feel the same about it. It needs to be a smart purchase and the best bang for the buck.
Did she force you to type that?
 
Well it’s not my money, it’s our money. Also it’s not a small purchase and definitely on the frivolous side. Still she is mostly supportive but expects me to make a thoughtful decision that minimizes the damage to our bank account. And I feel the same about it. It needs to be a smart purchase and the best bang for the buck.
His moniker states "Unapologetic prick", at least he's honest - and probably single!

Ya know, there's no shame in respecting your spouse. Happy wife happy life. Long after you cannot hear crisp highs and thumping lows, you two will still hear each other.

Much respect!

 
Amazon product ASIN B0854R7JYV
Amazon product ASIN B017PZPCLY
Amazon product ASIN B074KQP62F

Get a 60 amp fuse with the holder. This needs to be placed at the amplifier, the other fuse and holder needs be at the Vehicle Battery.

You can use a Wood Bastard File to shave the surround down for this sub to fit. The 2 ohm version of the amplifier is about $30 more. This amplifier will give you a better option to run 21 ohm later if you decide to Add another DVC4 ohm sub. You will not be running this amp hard @2ohms and should give plenty of bass in the cabin. Id rather do a ported enclosure myself. But these work if you do not want to do an all in one package as the bazooka 8"250 class d sub that works really well and almost destructible.
 
Last edited:
Id start @9'Oclock position on the amp for the sub and work from there to tune in to your liking. Wiring diagram for a final 2 ohm load for a DVC4 ohm sub as followed:


Wire the sub EXACTLY as Shown for the 2 ohm load to get the proper Ohms value out of the sub and @ the amplifiers load. Will be a really nice set up. You will need to tune as it may be a little too much to overwhelm your frontstage not tuned to blend in or a little above if running Stock speakers. Look for a 2 ch LOC to get your Signal by RCAs to the amplifier. Those are generally easy to put in and straight forward and need to be added before any internal/onboard vehicle amplifier. you can spend very little on one or up towards $100 bucks or more depending on the unit chosen

 
Well then, it comes down to "how loud is loud" to you. Given that the two are both about the same efficiency-wise, the 12" at 300 watts will outdo the 10" at the same. Not wanting to do the math, but for the sake of argument - we start to see diminishing returns. It might take another 100 watts for the 10" to catch up, then, another 100 to really play much louder. At that point, it may be ridiculously loud anyway. I seriously doubt you're going to ever put 500 watts into an under-the-seat sub, really don't see that, but that's me. 12" would be my choice if either of them fit. That Alpine is a nice amp too. Save on the sub, get the Alpine amp, win/win. My2cents
So to your question about Loudness:

I am not looking for the loudest option possible within my budget. I do want some added volume but mostly I want a much fuller sound. Since stock systems lack bass this seems to be what I need to add. I have no concept of how much bass is added by the various options. Someone told me that the small all in one alpine underseat pwe-s8 that I was considering would only add 10 percent to my setup which doesn’t seem worth spending $1000. know most here are looking for extreme maximum bass and want to rattle the neighbors windows but that’s not me. I don’t need anyone outside of my truck to hear my system I just want a really full sound inside the truck including replacing the bass that is absent from my stock system. I want to feel the low frequencies a bit (definitely more than I do now) but I don’t need a full body bass massage. Of course I also dont like the idea of saving $200 by going with a lesser system if it greatly reduces quality. If spending the $200 on the higher end sub takes the system from sounding like a 5 up to a 9 on a 10 point scale, then to me that’s a no brainer. However if they are close enough where the $200 only takes it from a 5 to a 6, then I may as well save the money. I think the limiting factor is that I have no way to know what any of these options sound like to be able to make an informed decision. Maybe some of what I am considering is overkill given my needs but I don’t have a way to know.
 
Well then, my vote is the 12". Years ago, I had to replace a stolen system in my little Suzuki hatchback. Because the insurance covered the system, they compensated me a lump sum. I decided to take the difference of building my own enclosure instead of reacquiring the previous box and dual 10s. With the added amount from building my own box, got the same model subs but the 12s. While I'm a fan of 10s, glad I changed. Both the 10s and the 12s were in sealed boxes, spec'd and stuffed. The difference was instant. Same amplification, different sound for sure. I powered it with it with the same amp, an old-school RF power 500.1, and never looked back. Very happy I made the jump to the 12s. The Alpine amp is nice at roughly 8.66" x 2.21" x 8.3", it s a lot in a small package. Recently, Stinger launched some very well-designed small'sh footprint subwoofer amplifiers too, the MT10001 comes in at 6 x 9 x 2. The design is actually unique to Stinger and the designer is well respected in the industry. The Stinger Audio MT10001 is every bit as well made with the exception of its BASS knob (which is not a factor in my mind - the Alpine BASS knob is an optional purchase) and it is actually 1ohm stable. It will give you 700 watts at 2ohms. (both amps have more than enough power for the Alpine 10 or 12). IT's $110 less to boot. Granted, if you just prefer that the Alpine amp and sub are the same brand, in my opinion, it's a $110 aesthetics choice, nothing more, nothing less, and if you have the spare change, worth it to anyone who likes things all to match. Go with the 12, either amp, get back to us, and tell everyone how stoked you are!

:D

Stinger

Amazon product ASIN B0BN25MG9N
Alpine

Amazon product ASIN B0C1LR2DHW
 
Last edited:
Amazon product ASIN B0854R7JYV
Amazon product ASIN B017PZPCLY
Amazon product ASIN B074KQP62F

Get a 60 amp fuse with the holder. This needs to be placed at the amplifier, the other fuse and holder needs be at the Vehicle Battery.

You can use a Wood Bastard File to shave the surround down for this sub to fit. The 2 ohm version of the amplifier is about $30 more. This amplifier will give you a better option to run 21 ohm later if you decide to Add another DVC4 ohm sub. You will not be running this amp hard @2ohms and should give plenty of bass in the cabin. Id rather do a ported enclosure myself. But these work if you do not want to do an all in one package as the bazooka 8"250 class d sub that works really well and almost destructible.
I appreciate you taking the time to try to help and write all this out, but I’ll freely admit that I have very little experience/knowledge in this arena and I don’t understand any of this. Way over my head. Thanks though. Whoever does the install for me will have to handle all this.
 
Amazon product ASIN B0854R7JYV
Amazon product ASIN B017PZPCLY
Amazon product ASIN B074KQP62F

Get a 60 amp fuse with the holder. This needs to be placed at the amplifier, the other fuse and holder needs be at the Vehicle Battery.

You can use a Wood Bastard File to shave the surround down for this sub to fit. The 2 ohm version of the amplifier is about $30 more. This amplifier will give you a better option to run 21 ohm later if you decide to Add another DVC4 ohm sub. You will not be running this amp hard @2ohms and should give plenty of bass in the cabin. Id rather do a ported enclosure myself. But these work if you do not want to do an all in one package as the bazooka 8"250 class d sub that works really well and almost destructible.
I appreciate you taking the time to try to help and write all this out, but I’ll freely admit that I have very little experience/knowledge in this arena and I don’t understand any of this. Way over my head. Thanks though. Whoever does the install for me will have to handle all rhis
Well then, my vote is the 12". Years ago, I had to replace a stolen system in my little Suzuki hatchback. Because the insurance covered the system, they compensated me a lump sum. I decided to take the difference of building my own enclosure instead of reacquiring the previous box and dual 10s. With the added amount from building my own box, got the same model subs but the 12s. While I'm a fan of 10s, glad I changed. Both the 10s and the 12s were in sealed boxes, spec'd and stuffed. The difference was instant. Same amplification, different sound for sure. I powered it with it with the same amp, an old-school RF power 500.1, and never looked back. Very happy I made the jump to the 12s. The Alpine amp is nice at roughly 8.66" x 2.21" x 8.3", it s a lot in a small package. Recently, Stinger launched some very well-designed small'sh footprint subwoofer amplifiers too, the MT10001 comes in at 6 x 9 x 2. The design is actually unique to Stinger and the designer is well respected in the industry. The Stinger Audio MT10001 is every bit as well made with the exception of its BASS knob (which is not a factor in my mind - the Alpine BASS knob is an optional purchase) and it is actually 1ohm stable. It will give you 700 watts at 2ohms. (both amps have more than enough power for the Alpine 10 or 12). IT's $110 less to boot. Granted, if you just prefer that the Alpine amp and sub are the same brand, in my opinion, it's a $110 aesthetics choice, nothing more, nothing less, and if you have the spare change, worth it to anyone who likes things all to match. Go with the 12, either amp, get back to us, and tell everyone how stoked you are!

:D

Stinger

Amazon product ASIN B0BN25MG9N
Alpine

Amazon product ASIN B0C1LR2DHW
Thsnks for the write-up on this, very helpful. To clarify, are you saying that the supposedly lower end S series compared to the Higher R series doesn’t really have a substantive difference in quality/efficiency, and therefore the S should perform mostly as well as the R? Also, with the S coming in a plastic enclosure and the R in a mdf fiber board box, this should not make a sound difference either? I had read the fiberboard material produced a warmer/richer sound. Thoughts?
 
I appreciate you taking the time to try to help and write all this out, but I’ll freely admit that I have very little experience/knowledge in this arena and I don’t understand any of this. Way over my head. Thanks though. Whoever does the install for me will have to handle all this.
Best. Hope you find what you need man.
 
I think, in your situation, yes.
A middle-ground compromise would be to get the upper end 10" with the less expensive but more powerful amp Stinger amp. In order for the RS-SB10 to perform at the volume of the 12 (at the same 300 watts), it'd need substantially more power. Since the 12 in this case the SS-SB12 can't handle the power the other can, then yes, up to the rated power limit of the SS-SB12, it will outperform the 10. Since either of the amplifiers will exceed the capability, then it becomes a matter of price-to-performance ratios, sound preferences, and ultimately, need. The 10 is a better sub and you pay for it. From what I see regarding your listening preferences, I don't think you're ever going to put 500 watts into any sub - that's really LOUD! if you think you would, then the rest of the system has to be re-evaluated too. At some point, the sub will drown out the other components unless they can keep up. With that in mind, you might ask, why either amp? IMHO, it's always better to have spare power and room for the amp to breathe. Headroom is a must in subwoofer applications. I am currently running a 3000-watt amp to dual SEALED Focal 33v2's, running them at 4 ohms to the amp which is rated to put out roughly 1500 watts at 4 ohms. Wasted power some would say but not to me. I'd rather the 1 ohm-rated amp run cool and easy at 4 all day long instead of running at the peak, even idling. While MDF is the preferred box material, the poly-box is waterproof too. Where do liquids go when spilled above in the seat? Pros and cons to everything. It may have been needed to get the 12" into a cavity that was large enough as well. I'm sure that Alpine is aware of the differences in sonics too. One thing they do well in good plastic fab boxes is engineered rigidity (Ribs and braces) that you just can't duplicate in a wooden structure as small as these. I would recommend that you buy a pound of Acusta Stuff and put 1 lb of it per 1 cu ft of airspace. (if these equal a cubic foot, then one pound of fill. It will help in either case.


Some will argue that it doesn't make much difference, I say it makes a LOT of difference in especially compressed boxes such as these.
 
Last edited:
I think, in your situation, yes.
A middle-ground compromise would be to get the upper end 10" with the less expensive but more powerful amp Stinger amp. In order for the RS-SB10 to perform at the volume of the 12 (at the same 300 watts), it'd need substantially more power. Since the 12 in this case the SS-SB12 can't handle the power the other can, then yes, up to the rated power limit of the SS-SB12, it will outperform the 10. Since either of the amplifiers will exceed the capability, then it becomes a matter of price-to-performance ratios, sound preferences, and ultimately, need. The 10 is a better sub and you pay for it. From what I see regarding your listening preferences, I don't think you're ever going to put 500 watts into any sub - that's really LOUD! if you think you would, then the rest of the system has to be re-evaluated too. At some point, the sub will drown out the other components unless they can keep up. With that in mind, you might ask, why either amp? IMHO, it's always better to have spare power and room for the amp to breathe. Headroom is a must in subwoofer applications. I am currently running a 3000-watt amp to dual SEALED Focal 33v2's, running them at 4 ohms to the amp which is rated to put out roughly 1500 watts at 4 ohms. Wasted power some would say but not to me. I'd rather the 1 ohm-rated amp run cool and easy at 4 all day long instead of running at the peak, even idling. While MDF is the preferred box material, the poly-box is waterproof too. Where do liquids go when spilled above in the seat? Pros and cons to everything. It may have been needed to get the 12" into a cavity that was large enough as well. I'm sure that Alpine is aware of the differences in sonics too. One thing they do well in good plastic fab boxes is engineered rigidity (Ribs and braces) that you just can't duplicate in a wooden structure as small as these. I would recommend that you buy a pound of Acusta Stuff and put 1 lb of it per 1 cu ft of airspace. (if these equal a cubic foot, then one pound of fill. It will help in either case.


Some will argue that it doesn't make much difference, I say it makes a LOT of difference in especially compressed boxes such as these.
The Poly Fill deff helps to tame down that Hollow/Echo sound effect and works. Ive used it in many enclosures over the years
 
I think, in your situation, yes.
A middle-ground compromise would be to get the upper end 10" with the less expensive but more powerful amp Stinger amp. In order for the RS-SB10 to perform at the volume of the 12 (at the same 300 watts), it'd need substantially more power. Since the 12 in this case the SS-SB12 can't handle the power the other can, then yes, up to the rated power limit of the SS-SB12, it will outperform the 10. Since either of the amplifiers will exceed the capability, then it becomes a matter of price-to-performance ratios, sound preferences, and ultimately, need. The 10 is a better sub and you pay for it. From what I see regarding your listening preferences, I don't think you're ever going to put 500 watts into any sub - that's really LOUD! if you think you would, then the rest of the system has to be re-evaluated too. At some point, the sub will drown out the other components unless they can keep up. With that in mind, you might ask, why either amp? IMHO, it's always better to have spare power and room for the amp to breathe. Headroom is a must in subwoofer applications. I am currently running a 3000-watt amp to dual SEALED Focal 33v2's, running them at 4 ohms to the amp which is rated to put out roughly 1500 watts at 4 ohms. Wasted power some would say but not to me. I'd rather the 1 ohm-rated amp run cool and easy at 4 all day long instead of running at the peak, even idling. While MDF is the preferred box material, the poly-box is waterproof too. Where do liquids go when spilled above in the seat? Pros and cons to everything. It may have been needed to get the 12" into a cavity that was large enough as well. I'm sure that Alpine is aware of the differences in sonics too. One thing they do well in good plastic fab boxes is engineered rigidity (Ribs and braces) that you just can't duplicate in a wooden structure as small as these. I would recommend that you buy a pound of Acusta Stuff and put 1 lb of it per 1 cu ft of airspace. (if these equal a cubic foot, then one pound of fill. It will help in either case.


Some will argue that it doesn't make much difference, I say it makes a LOT of difference in especially compressed boxes such as these.
FYI, if I go with the S series 12 inch, crutchfield advisor is recommending I use either the kicker 46CXA400.1T as the amp (first choice) or the alpine it’s-200M- (second choice). Your thoughts on this competed to stinger?
 
The Alpine 200M is woefully underpowered and the Kicker is no longer offered at Crutchfield - interestingly enough. If you are purchasing from Crutchfield, they are most often going to suggest only brands that they sell, as they should. Unlike myself or others in this forum, they don't have working knowledge of any but what they sell, and that is less likely to be anywhere near the knowledge base you'll get here. From Crutchfield, $250 and under, I would get the following - in order of preference:

Though not a fan of the spade connections, good power, subsonic filter​



As already discussed, good power, and the same brand as the sub, but DOESN'T have a subsonic filter which I think makes a difference in your configuration, it's still a good product.


Decent power and because it looks cool, no subsonic filter​



Another Harmon industry production:



Now, the other options that are similar in size and performance are under $250 that I would prefer over any of the afore mentioned:

Power, features (subsonic filter) build design, price

More than you'll ever need, extra should you decide to upgrade sub someday, and because it packs 500 extra (can't ever have too much, relatively speakering) watts into a small package for only $20 more than the next choice​

Amazon product ASIN B0BN2BG2M1
Next:

Power, features (subsonic filter) build design, price

Amazon product ASIN B0BN25MG9N
Next:

Just enough power, features (subsonic filter) build design, price

Amazon product ASIN B0BMVXC6HZ
My, well, your 2 cents... ;)
 
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