Box software help please

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Rcn11thacr

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I am building this box this morning and would appreciate if someone would lend me a hand with figuring out what this box is tuned to and what the exact internal dimensions are?

I have 4 S8L7 4 ohm dvc solo baric’s planned for a 94 K1500 single cab and I would appreciate if someone could check out my box in a software program. The subs will be down firing behind the seat, 2 per side, with the amps mounted in the middle of the box.
MDF is .765 OD
All measurements in picture of box are external.
Individually sub/sealed enclosure.
Listening interests- Bass, heavy metal, country.
96 lbs of sound deadener in cab, Big 3 +, dual 1/0 power, single 4/0 ground to the frame. Working on a dual alternator bracket now. Subs will be powered by a CXA 1800.1

Would someone mind putting this in a program and letting me know what the outcome is? If I measured correctly, I believe I have .0.620 Cu Ft per enclosure. I would be interested in knowing what the program says?

If I missed providing any information, please let me know. Any thoughts would be helpful also. Thank you.
 

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If you're on a computer go to subbox.pro.
If you're on Android or iOS download the ultimate car audio app.
Both are completely free to use.
I modeled my box in both and the results came out the same up to 1/1000 of an inch.
 
I did attempt to use sub box pro and a few others and none of them allowed me to enter the specs, considering the odd shape of the box.

I would not have asked for help before using what was available. If these programs will do the odd shape, then it was an operator head space and timing issue (meaning I could not figure it out).
 
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I use torres tuning calculator. without knowing the dimensions of each chamber I can only give you the overall cuft which is 4.55cuft. That only accounts for the sub displacement.
 
Made some progress today. The overall length changed to 62 inches. Still have 4 individual subs in their own boxes. I still do not know what the box is turned to.
 

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Using measurements in the picture and adding wood (since this software figures external size), I come up with .66 cu ft air space per sub.

I am having issues figuring out what each enclosure is tuned to based on the picture. It says the Qtc must be greater than the Qts. Am I entering it incorrectly?
 

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Point taken.

Based on that box shape in order to find the actual volume you're going to need to take measurements for two triangular shapes and remove them from what the cube foot with that box would actually be. Sounds like a mouthful but it works.

To get tuning, modify the box volume in ultimate car audio app or subbox.pro to match the actual and play around with that volume to get the tuning that you need.

I repeat I know it sounds like a lot and if math is not your buddy then it may be but that'll get you to where you want to go.

If you can tell me what the height of that triangular protrusion at the back of the box actually measures from the ground up, meaning perpendicular from the ground to that point I might be able to help you out. I'll also need to know how far it extends past the end of the bottom piece of wood.
 
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Also, don't use WinISD the numbers are off. I compared the Ultimate car audio app, speakerbox pro and lite, sub box.pro, and WinISD on multiple numbers. WinISD was the only one that was obviously incorrect. The others matched within 1/1000 of each other.
 
I use winisd pro a lot. I’ve ran 1000+ woofers through winisd, so I know what to look for. I’ve seen a few programs not model well, but it all comes down to you knowing what you’re doing, from my experience. Like I have my own port length calculators in excel, amongst other things, that I all setup myself. If you ever do put box formulas onto your own spreadsheet, it can really help you understand some dynamics of boxes based on the equations you have to use.

To a large extent, tuning is tuning. Most of the time the simple models you can get for free aren’t really that useful; it is useful to compare models against each other with different woofers to understand the woofer better.

I just mean no matter what your model looks like, box space is box space and tuning is tuning, and any different woofers of the same cone size are only going to vary so much with what they need. Say tuning to 32 hz is typically going to give you a similar response across the board, because that’s a hard structure pressurizing at the frequency, regardless of woofer Fs or cabin gain. The woofer specs and cabin gain some, but the biggest factor in response with ported is your hard tuning, and the response will revolve largely around that. Some vehicles boost differently than others, but then again, there’s only so much variance between vehicle shapes and resonances that you’re going to run into.

Too many factors can change sound, so you really have to develop a feel for it, if you want to be good or better than you are now when designing, or have an easier time. At certain point of knowledge, you may be able to see sound better in your mind; that’s what happened to me over time.
 
With box volume, the best thing you can do is the raw math. I account for every brace and change and port and motor and everything, because that’s the only way you really know your tuning.
 
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Rcn11thacr

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