HELP Choosing tweeters to Pair with ds18 midrange

Cone area Rules.. For the Price of that sub.. You can get a pair of American Bass Hawk 15s that will slamm theyre azz off on 3k+



I just picked up another set for another install coming up and going to be using the CT Sounds 3200.1 I believe? Though the amp hasnt been 100% chosen as of yet
Im going to go with this route, Id love to have 2 15's and the price is unbeatable. Like I said it would be put on a taramps smart 3k bass. Their very power hungry though, I think they need 200ah of stored power. Is their a way I can acheive this while staying on the cheap side as far as batteries go? Also, would a 1 gauge wire do the job?

What frequency should the box be tuned at. Also id probably go with the cheapest material option I think it should be fine.

Lastly, are their any other box options, the one you sent is perfect, but might be a little to tall for my trunk.
 
Im going to go with this route, Id love to have 2 15's and the price is unbeatable. Like I said it would be put on a taramps smart 3k bass. Their very power hungry though, I think they need 200ah of stored power. Is their a way I can acheive this while staying on the cheap side as far as batteries go? Also, would a 1 gauge wire do the job?

What frequency should the box be tuned at. Also id probably go with the cheapest material option I think it should be fine.

Lastly, are their any other box options, the one you sent is perfect, but might be a little to tall for my trunk.
Go for the 15's, the only thing to concern yourself with is the box and if you have enough room, which you should have. They are not going to require anything more (power) than the same model 12's really, not an issue.

Not sure where the batteries AH (amp hours) comes into play unless you;re talking about using the system when the motor isn't running. That is a function of the battery storage capacity, not amperage burst rate.

The AH on the $500 Glow Voltage series 1 battery that I'm using is only 96ah and my system is close to 4500 watts driving dual 13" sealed Focal 33v2's with a Soundigital 2400.1 (2 ohm)
 
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THe AB 15's are sold out. 2 of these on sale are a nice option


In one of these tuned to 29hz would be bang'n

 
THe AB 15's are sold out. 2 of these on sale are a nice option


In one of these tuned to 29hz would be bang'n

Just make a note: Neighbors gonna hate on it!
 
Go for the 15's, the only thing to concern yourself with is the box and if you have enough room, which you should have. They are not going to require anything more (power) than the same model 12's really, not an issue.

Not sure where the batteries AH (amp hours) comes into play unless you;re talking about using the system when the motor isn't running. That is a function of the battery storage capacity, not amperage burst rate.

The AH on the $500 Glow Voltage series 1 battery that I'm using is only 96ah and my system is close to 4500 watts driving dual 13" sealed Focal 33v2's with a Soundigital 2400.1 (2 ohm)
Interesting. I used to have a taramps smart 3k bass with a optima yellow top battery and power bastards alternator pushing 2 skar evl 12's. Not only were they not that loud, but they clipped all the time. After playing for a good 20 minutes, it completely killed my battery, I couldn't even jump the car. The taramps manual states that it needs a reserve compacity of 200ah. Overall was a very confusing experience.
 
Interesting. I used to have a taramps smart 3k bass with a optima yellow top battery and power bastards alternator pushing 2 skar evl 12's. Not only were they not that loud, but they clipped all the time. After playing for a good 20 minutes, it completely killed my battery, I couldn't even jump the car. The taramps manual states that it needs a reserve compacity of 200ah. Overall was a very confusing experience.
That is dependant on other thigs and that is excessive. Have you decided on a 2nd battery? THere are some really good options for a lithium bank around $399 that should be all you need.


Run 1/0 +/- from front to rear battery and parallel ground the battery in the back as well as back to the front battery, ground and power the amps directly off the 2nd battery in the trunk, a should be all good.
 
That is dependant on other thigs and that is excessive. Have you decided on a 2nd battery? THere are some really good options for a lithium bank around $399 that should be all you need.


Run 1/0 +/- from front to rear battery and parallel ground the battery in the back as well as back to the front battery, ground and power the amps directly off the 2nd battery in the trunk, a should be all good.
Yea i was a newbie at the time, I didn't give it too much gain, but it still should have been louder then it was. Are you sure its ok to attach that lithium battery to my main battery, its just a cheap bottom of the barrel battery I have in the front.
 
Yea i was a newbie at the time, I didn't give it too much gain, but it still should have been louder then it was. Are you sure its ok to attach that lithium battery to my main battery, its just a cheap bottom of the barrel battery I have in the front.
You could, I would get an isolator because It's advised when mixing chemistry. Be a good idea to get a beefed up AGM under the hood too, about $250?

These just came online and they are pretty slick. Have manual on/off remote button too.

 
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You could, I would get an isolator because It's advised when mixing chemistry. Be a good idea to get a beefed up AGM under the hood too, about $250?

These just came online and they are pretty slick. Have manual on/off remote button too.

What are your thoughts on going with this set up for speakers? (Id do 2 speakers per channel).



 
What are your thoughts on going with this set up for speakers? (Id do 2 speakers per channel).



Not fan of PA (obnoxiously loud, not SQ) Pro style speakers and not a fan of Taramps for full range playback either. Lousy pots, poor quality x-over circuits and controls which are not of concern on the sub amps.

Get a good four channel like the CT sounds or the Sundown SPF 500.4D, great amplification, quality circuits. I really can't stand the sound of bullet tweeters, can't advise you on those objectively. The only ones I've ever liked are on my music rooms Ev's and JBL's and they run in the $400+ range per tweeter!

I would opt of CDT's over any pro style drivers all day long. They aren't as loud but loud enough and won't make your ears bleed.


and


Cross the front and rears at 80 hz, deaden the $hit out of the doors, make HPDE mountings for all four doors


Now you're talking!

Don't take my word for it. go down and blair some of those PA style drivers at the local shop, not a nice thing to listen too. AND, they are really poor midbass drivers and really only get going at around 150-200 hz. Not what I want my 15" subs to have to try an play up to (and frankly, not something you would be able to get a pair of subs to play up to from the trunk).

They are really repurposed PA style midrange drivers, not midbass drivers.
 
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Not fan of PA (obnoxiously loud, not SQ) Pro style speakers and not a fan of Taramps for full range playback either. Lousy pots, poor quality x-over circuits and controls which are not of concern on the sub amps.

Get a good four channel like the CT sounds or the Sundown SPF 500.4D, great amplification, quality circuits. I really can't stand the sound of bullet tweeters, can't advise you on those objectively. The only ones I've ever liked are on my music rooms Ev's and JBL's and they run in the $400+ range per tweeter!

I would opt of CDT's over any pro style drivers all day long. They aren't as loud but loud enough and won't make your ears bleed.


and


Cross the front and rears at 80 hz, deaden the $hit out of the doors, make HPDE mountings for all four doors


Now you're talking!

Don't take my word for it. go down and blair some of those PA style drivers at the local shop, not a nice thing to listen too. AND, they are really crappy midbass drivers and really only get going at around 150-200 hz. Not what I want my 15" subs to have to try an play up to (and frankly, not something you would be able to get a pir of subs to play up to from the trunk).

They are really repurposed PA style midrange drivers, not midbass drivers.
Thanks, Im convinced!
 
Im going to go with this route, Id love to have 2 15's and the price is unbeatable. Like I said it would be put on a taramps smart 3k bass. Their very power hungry though, I think they need 200ah of stored power. Is their a way I can acheive this while staying on the cheap side as far as batteries go? Also, would a 1 gauge wire do the job?

What frequency should the box be tuned at. Also id probably go with the cheapest material option I think it should be fine.

Lastly, are their any other box options, the one you sent is perfect, but might be a little to tall for my trunk.
A 250-300 amp alternator, the Big3,two of the largest AGM batteries(Usually 2- 34/78 batteries work fine) you can get in place, (one under the hood, and even a larger in the trunk at the amplifiers), with 1/0-0ga OFC supply and grounds.Should be just fine with the vehicle running.
Freq.?= 29-33HTZ
Enclosure?= the one submitted are examples of High output of which I recommend for trunk space. You can always give GP Audio a call and give the dimensions of your trunk space as they can make adjustments in length for the height and depth. They will also accept e-mails.
 
What are your thoughts on going with this set up for speakers? (Id do 2 speakers per channel).



6x9 for rear deck Recommended=
Baffles for 6x9 in rear deck to protect from subwoofer low freq. and air movements=

Recommend Components up front=

Amplifier recommendations for front and rear=



 
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