FEATURED KHA 2023 SS Camaro - SQ Build Log

[keep_hope_alive Premium Member]

The trunk floor is very resonant and in need of a lot of treatment.

After full coverage of CLD, the floor is very dead.

Then I covered the floor with CCF from my stock of Ensolite that I’ve had for a while.

I also treated the bottom of the rear deck with CLD

https://hosting.photobucket.com/images/e128/phat_funky_beats/20231028_004210.jpg/img]

Then I covered it with CCF in order to hide the silver deadener since the rear deck is visible.

[img]https://hosting.photobucket.com/images/e128/phat_funky_beats/20231028_012008.jpg

With the side panels fitted in place, the scope of CCF is sufficient, even though it’s not a perfect finish, it is hard to get a seamless install.

https://hosting.photobucket.com/images/e128/phat_funky_beats/20231028_013631.jpg[img]


And here is a first look at where I plan on mounting the amps, a MV600/6i and a MV1000/1 with the MVi Hub.

[img]https://hosting.photobucket.com/images/e128/phat_funky_beats/20231028_013350.jpg/img]

 

[keep_hope_alive Premium Member]

The trunk floor is very resonant and in need of a lot of treatment.

After full coverage of CLD, the floor is very dead.

Then I covered the floor with CCF from my stock of Ensolite that I’ve had for a while.

I also treated the bottom of the rear deck with CLD

Then I covered it with CCF in order to hide the silver deadener since the rear deck is visible.

With the side panels fitted in place, the scope of CCF is sufficient, even though it’s not a perfect finish, it is hard to get a seamless install.

And here is a first look at where I plan on mounting the amps, a MV600/6i and a MV1000/1 with the MVi Hub.

 

[keep_hope_alive Premium Member]

Using 14/2 CL3 rated speaker wire, I ran two pairs of 14/2 and 9-wire from the amps in the rear driver’s side trunk corner to the factory head unit module. I also ran two pairs of 14/2 to each dash corner. This jacketed cable has protection but is stiff enough that it can rattle against the aluminum CLD layer. So I laid down CCF to keep it isolated then secured the wiring with CCF strips to keep it flat. I used Tessa Tape where the wiring is routed without CCF isolation.

I started by measuring the necessary lengths then laying the bundles out. I determined lengths by routing them from the trunk to the front, using velco wire ties to keep them tidy.

I laid down CCF strips where the wiring would route, then used CCF strips to keep the wire flat and organized with no crossings that would thicken the path.

Routing down the sides of the transmission tunnel keeps the wiring away from stock bundles while also managing wire lengths.

I also covered the kick panel area in Resonix Barrier after adding CLD and Fibermat 45 inside the cavity. This was definitely a source of road noise.

Now I can start to reinstall the interior!

 

[keep_hope_alive Premium Member]

I took a unique path in order to keep the new wiring away from factory wiring bundles that can generate EMF due to the amount of digital signals that are present in new vehicles. While it is not a major concern is most builds, because I am making the car as quiet as I can, the electronic noise floor needs to be equally low. For most users, following the factory wiring pathway would be faster and easier and there is space below and/or adjacent to the factory wiring that would allow zip ties or velcro straps every so often to keep the wiring tidy.

 

[keep_hope_alive Premium Member]

Made a big push on Friday afternoon and worked till 3:30am on Saturday to have a completed Phase 1, ready to drive again!

Treated the rear panels with CLD, closed up the speaker hole, and then covered them in Fibermat 45

I reinstalled all of the interior. No reason to show pics since it looks stock. No evidence of what I've done. I finally got to drive it for the first time since August 28th. Around town with some music on at a reasonable volume there is no exterior noise to distract you, it's really nice. I did a 55mph highway noise measurement that was a repeat of the "before" measurement, and I'll share those results when I have time to process the data. I have been taking videos in 4K throughout the process so I'll have a series of videos on the efforts and results. Subjectively (bias, I know), driving around town between 30-40mph is serene, and with a bit of music the outside world is drowned out. The engine is always able to be noticed, but the baffling in the stock exhaust makes it pretty quiet while cruising. The exhaust has cutouts that bypass the "suitcase" muffler, so you get loud cold starts and an awesome tone when you mash the gas, but you don't have any drone while cruising.

I also needed to install some tweeters in the dash so I had some interim tunes while I build the amp rack. So I mounted the Hertz ML28 tweeters using the speaker mount adapters that came in the kit. I terminated the wiring with some plugs so install/removal is “easier”. I put that in quotes because it took a lot of time to get the plugs made since I terminated all four pairs in the dash so the mids would be ready to go when the time comes. These connectors have a multi-step process requiring a specific crimper.

I mounted the tweeters using the Hertz adapters (because I still have the original boxes and all original hardware), and I added come CCF around the gap to close it off, not an aesthetic application but you only have the width of your finger to work in that corner.

Of course, the component set needs passive crossovers for now, since it’s powered by the stock radio. I located these in the truck well as an interim step since I want to keep the amp area clear until I make the switch-over.

While the stock head unit and stock amplifier are being used, the difference is staggering. Granted, it should for the quality of speakers and the amount of work I've done, but I'm still surprised. Bass out of the doors is effortless, clean, and you'd think I had a sub hidden up front. The Hertz Mille passive crossovers aren't cheesy and really complement the speakers well. The tweeter attenuation and HF contour for the woofer really helped build the sound stage using the stock radio. It stages well and images decent. Everything is above the dash, but not a "clinical" feel, just musical. IYKYK.

 

[keep_hope_alive Premium Member]

I also took the opportunity to recover the knee bolsters since they are just hard plastic on the SS. I used Resonix Fibermat 25 for padding since it has an adhesive layer to stay put, then wrapped them in fleece fabric and secured with 3M Super 77. Not a pro job, and the driver’s side was first so the passenger side looks better, but It’s much more comfortable.

The cut shape is weird, but that’s just how I wrap corners with a stretchable fleece.

This is the worst one I did, which is why I’m sharing this and not my best.

End result of both knee bolsters on each side:

 

[audiobaun 5,000+ posts]

Nice indeed!!

 

[keep_hope_alive Premium Member]

Since I had to change the tires from summer to winter, I took advantage of the effort to acoustically treat the wheel wells, kick panels, and quarter panels.

There is a small amount of sound absorption in the space between the quarter panel and kick panel.

The passenger side has the added challenge of the windshield fluid reservoir.

I used some Resonix CLD on the quarter panel and then Fibermat 45 in the cavities and on the flat areas.

Next, I covered a lot of the areas with Raamaudio Ensolite CCF, including along seams for cut edges of Fibermat due to the amount of water that that area is subject to.

I switch to winter tires for an obvious reason. The all-season summer tires aren’t rated for use below 40 deg. F. Here you can see the front/rear stock tires with 20,000 miles. The Blizzak tires are used (left) and new (right) with the new tires going on front (steering and braking).

 

[ThxOne Premium Member]

You done turned the car into an anechoic chamber.

 

[Firewalker]

I had a '96 SS Camaro that I built up 24 hours after I bought it. Ripped the engine out and even though the LT1 ***** was able to get it up to 500-550hp when said & done. I used to eat through those same kind of tires all the time. For the winter IF I drove it I had Bridgestone Potenza's then summer I used cheapo tires since I burned through them no point in buying good ones as long as they worked in the rain(somewhat) and were cheap they worked for me! So I get it with the tires thing. Those things are bad enough to control on dry pavement let alone snow/wet pavement.

 

[keep_hope_alive Premium Member]

After the noise treatments in the doors, floor, and rear of the Camaro, I turned my attention to the firewall. These vehicles have a tube that runs from the engine intake pathway to the firewall, with a diaphragm to isolate airspace but allow sound to pass through. The solution is to 3D print two pieces that let you plug each of the holes – one at the firewall and one at the intake pathway, just before the throttle body. I printed these out of ABS.

The fire wall connection looks like this, with a 10mm nut:

https://hosting.photobucket.com/images/e128/phat_funky_beats/20240124_211949.jpg[img]

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The hose connection at the intake pathway looks like this:
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And the rubber hose clamps are easily opened and removed as they just use push-clips.
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The diaphragm is held with T50 Torx bolts:
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With the hose removed, you have this:
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The result at the firewall is this piece with butyl gasketing:
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The result at the intake pathway is this plug that fits perfectly:
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The result is very noticeable. All of the intake noise is gone. The chugging noise from V4 mode is gone. The cabin is much more comfortable.