Opinions are like a$$holes, everyone’s' got one, right? Budget LiFePO4 (not diy li-on cell banks, buss bars and regulators) Opinions?

Doxquzme
Premium Member

Current build, 2012 Mazda 3 Hatch 2.5T
2,035
723
Boise, ID
A lot of discussion on electrical/voltage draw and remedy.
Let's say for the sake of this discussion, stock Alt. Big three upgrade done, wanna reinforce quick discharge for occasional BASS amp draw/performance.
Not long duration sustain or at the picnic sound reinforcement when the car is off/parked, just want to help the system performance when listening without the lights dimming or the amp going into protect mode.

This is not my situation or anyone else in particular, just in general.

L/A or AGM under the hood, isolator inline, parallel ground in place 2/0 OFC.

1500 to 2000 watt system.

Assuming the need for a 2nd battery to fulfill this goal has been established.

What is your go-to BUDGET under $300 LiFePO4 drop-in solution?
 
What is your go-to BUDGET under $300 LiFePO4 drop-in solution
Not a LiFePO4, but Pops mentioned a Maxwell graphene supercap a few weeks ago. The YT video made it sound very convincing. TBH, I am not stoked with my Ioxus supercap so I have been eyeballing this product.
Screenshot_20231104-000453.png
 
Question... it may have been you who mentioned why this is not a good option but I can't remember when. Thoughts anyone?

The battery that you linked to is not made for high current discharge. They are made for steady charging and discharging like for a camper. If you look at the FAQ section of the link, you will see that they don’t recommend using these batteries for starting a car. If it can’t take the amperage of a starter, it can’t handle the peaks of car audio either.
 
That's right, that's what I recall too. What kind of specs would one be looking for regarding in/out discharge ratings?

99% if not 100% of the cased lithium batteries you find online will not work for car audio. They are all solar batteries with low charging and discharging rates. The only one I can recommend is the Glowe Voltage.
 
A lot of discussion on electrical/voltage draw and remedy.
Let's say for the sake of this discussion, stock Alt. Big three upgrade done, wanna reinforce quick discharge for occasional BASS amp draw/performance.
Not long duration sustain or at the picnic sound reinforcement when the car is off/parked, just want to help the system performance when listening without the lights dimming or the amp going into protect mode.

This is not my situation or anyone else in particular, just in general.

L/A or AGM under the hood, isolator inline, parallel ground in place 2/0 OFC.

1500 to 2000 watt system.

Assuming the need for a 2nd battery to fulfill this goal has been established.

What is your go-to BUDGET under $300 LiFePO4 drop-in solution?
Your scenario is bad.

* 2/0 ofc, why?

* A battery isolator would give you a second battery, not dual batteries, so it would help this in no possible way.

* If it's about a quick little hit when the vehicle is running and a 2000 watt system, that's 173 amps. If most vehicles are 110-150amp alts stock, that's only when it's electrical is being maxed out. Generally you use less than half of that unless it's really hot out.
A 250 amp alt is going is to satisfy that. An alt recharges/produces even for that burst, would also satisfy this, and be much more useful overall.
 
99% if not 100% of the cased lithium batteries you find online will not work for car audio. They are all solar batteries with low charging and discharging rates. The only one I can recommend is the Glowe Voltage.
Always learning, good info to have. There are a TON of these out there, temping for many I'm sure.
 
Your scenario is bad.

* 2/0 ofc, why?

* A battery isolator would give you a second battery, not dual batteries, so it would help this in no possible way.

* If it's about a quick little hit when the vehicle is running and a 2000 watt system, that's 173 amps. If most vehicles are 110-150amp alts stock, that's only when it's electrical is being maxed out. Generally you use less than half of that unless it's really hot out.
A 250 amp alt is going is to satisfy that. An alt recharges/produces even for that burst, would also satisfy this, and be much more useful overall.
2/0 because it was the same as the other 1/0 I was looking at purchasing (and only for reference since that is what I used) AND to decrease the current loss on the ground return as I am parallel grounding (2/0 back to battery/engine/chassis/motor) 1/0 to the rear frame.

Isolators are necessary when mixing chemistry types i.e., L/a, AGM under the hood, and li-on in the rear so yes, applicable and required in my opinion. The post did say "Assuming the need for a 2nd battery to fulfill this goal has been established"
 
Activity
No one is currently typing a reply...

Similar threads

Giving subs more power really wakes them up. The MRP-500 is pretty low power. You would really notice more authority in your bass.
8
659
I’m sure they will be a good budget setup. I think they will lack some midbass but door treatment is super important so definitely be sure to do...
1
801
JL RD1500.1 does rated power @1 or 2 ohms, Does 1800 to 1900 watts in tests I've seen.. Designed buy a guy who designed old school PPI and Xtant...
13
1K
I would face the port and sub back. Even if you got a soft top, the rear gate will serve as a loading wall. I looked at the specs for the 10w6v3...
3
2K

About this thread

Doxquzme

Premium Member
Current build, 2012 Mazda 3 Hatch 2.5T
Thread starter
Doxquzme
Joined
Location
Boise, ID
Start date
Participants
Who Replied
Replies
37
Views
2,973
Last reply date
Last reply from
deez283
20221010_113336 (5).jpg

audiobaun

    Apr 27, 2024
  • 0
  • 0
20221010_113007 (5).jpg

audiobaun

    Apr 27, 2024
  • 0
  • 0

Latest topics

Top