Opinions needed: are better speakers necessary?

[willh035]

I'm planning on doing a full sound deadening treatment and proper, solid reinstall of my speakers. I've been looking at more powerful speakers (and thus amp) and have started to wonder if that's even necessary since I'm doing the SD and solid install. I'm currently running a pair of components and pair of coax at 70 rms each. Do you guys think it's necessary to get more powerful speakers in my case? I'm trying to not spend money where it isn't needed. Speakers described are pair of DB6501 and DB651, respectively. They're not bad speakers, but there's always something better and the audio monster in me wants to play big but doesn't have the big wallet. If you think I should upgrade, feel free to drop some suggestions, but don't be the guy that expects me to drop $400 on a pair of components. Thanks in advance!

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[Boomin_tahoe 5,000+ posts]

What vehicle? I'm familiar with those model numbers because I'm running Polk Audio as well.

It would help if you had a 4 ch amp and a small sub. Get everything tuned good and should get nice and loud for ya.

Better than Polks? Yes, but that's totally up to you and your finances.

 

[Ordell]

Those are decent speakers but you definitely need to amplify them * B-Stock* Sundown Audio SAE-50.4 - Car Audio Bargain or a https://www.caraudioco.com/precision-power-p900-4.html?fee=2&fep=7219 for around 150 would be awesome. I'd ditch the rear coaxials or run them off the HU. I'd push for the P900 running the comps and the other channels bridged running a * B-Stock* Sundown Audio Ev3 12 Subwoofer 500W E Series - Car Audio Bargain or what ever size I can spare room for in a ported box tuned to around 35hz, anyways what's the vehicle? What HU?

 

[willh035]

I'm running a DubA4100 Amp with 70 rms per channel as well as a Rockford fosgate R750-1D pushing 750 rms to an IA Lethal Injection 12 sealed in a VW Jetta

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[Ordell]

Then I'd say bridge that 4 channel to you components @ around 130-150w and run the coaxials off your HU that would let you know if you can squeeze more output out of those components. your sub can take more than that, I'd say a cab 1600.1 would work well on a budget, around 1200w in a low tuned ported box.

 

[trumpet 5,000+ posts]

I'm running a DubA4100 Amp with 70 rms per channel as well as a Rockford fosgate R750-1D pushing 750 rms to an IA Lethal Injection 12 sealed in a VW Jetta
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What year is your Jetta? I'm a supporting vendor on this site.

 

[Jeffdachef 5,000+ posts]

I'm running a DubA4100 Amp with 70 rms per channel as well as a Rockford fosgate R750-1D pushing 750 rms to an IA Lethal Injection 12 sealed in a VW Jetta
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What do you have for processing/head unit?

I'd proceed with the door treatments and have tweeters directly on axis if possible.

I'd also run active with the front. As in put the rears on head unit power. put the two of the 4 channels on the tweeter and the other two on the other two channels and cross them over through an active capable head unit. Then time align drivers afterwards then EQ. Every deficiency you are hearing is most likely from a lack of a full install/tune

 

[willh035]

What do you have for processing/head unit?
I'd proceed with the door treatments and have tweeters directly on axis if possible.

I'd also run active with the front. As in put the rears on head unit power. put the two of the 4 channels on the tweeter and the other two on the other two channels and cross them over through an active capable head unit. Then time align drivers afterwards then EQ. Every deficiency you are hearing is most likely from a lack of a full install/tune

I have no experience with active but I definitely wouldn't mind trying it. Is the Kenwood DPX501BT active capable? And if so, what speakers would you recommend for that set up?

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[Jeffdachef 5,000+ posts]

I have no experience with active but I definitely wouldn't mind trying it. Is the Kenwood DPX501BT active capable? And if so, what speakers would you recommend for that set up?
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No that head unit is not active capable its not even remotely viable for an audio enthusiast.

sorry to say but that head unit will be the weakest link in your system. Zero tuning options, weak 16 bit dac, 2.5 volt pre-out signal. eventually you'll want to replace this asap after sound treatments something with 13 bands of EQ, time alignment, 4 volt or higher pre-outs and a 24 bit dac (this DAC alone makes music sound WAY better out of the box)

Your polks can actually sound loud clear and amazing on a proper head unit. Yes the head unit makes that big of a difference in actual sound quality. Add a powerful clean amp with sound deadening and you'll notice the biggest difference. Whatever dissatisfaction you have right now is not the speaker's fault, its the whole install and tune thats inadequate. The tune is mainly held back by the head unit but the install, you should definitely proceed with covering all the door holes and use mass loaded vinyl and ccf ETC..

TLDR

you have good speakers but a crap head unit and crap untreated doors. Address those first. Put rears on head unit power. Bridge your 4 channel to power only front components. Get better head unit.

 

[willh035]

No that head unit is not active capable its not even remotely viable for an audio enthusiast.sorry to say but that head unit will be the weakest link in your system. Zero tuning options, weak 16 bit dac, 2.5 volt pre-out signal. eventually you'll want to replace this asap after sound treatments something with 13 bands of EQ, time alignment, 4 volt or higher pre-outs and a 24 bit dac (this DAC alone makes music sound WAY better out of the box)

Your polks can actually sound loud clear and amazing on a proper head unit. Yes the head unit makes that big of a difference in actual sound quality. Add a powerful clean amp with sound deadening and you'll notice the biggest difference. Whatever dissatisfaction you have right now is not the speaker's fault, its the whole install and tune thats inadequate. The tune is mainly held back by the head unit but the install, you should definitely proceed with covering all the door holes and use mass loaded vinyl and ccf ETC..

TLDR

you have good speakers but a crap head unit and crap untreated doors. Address those first. Put rears on head unit power. Bridge your 4 channel to power only front components. Get better head unit.

http://www.sonicelectronix.com/item_100183_Pioneer-AVH-X5800BHS.html

I've been looking at this one for a while. Looks like it meets most of the criteria you just said.

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[Jeffdachef 5,000+ posts]

http://www.sonicelectronix.com/item_100183_Pioneer-AVH-X5800BHS.html
I've been looking at this one for a while. Looks like it meets most of the criteria you just said.

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yup that will take it to the next level.

With that unit you can go into network mode and run your components active which means you throw away the crossovers and amp the tweeter and mid individually and control crossover points on the head unit.