Smelly voice coil... Am I screwed?

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Zackster

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So I started to smell this strange smell that was unmistakably burning electronics... I was very sad to find out that it was my sub emitting the smell. Just for the record, it is a Pioneer ts w303r champion 12 250 watt rms 1200 watt max 4 ohm SVC. The amp I was running it on was a Crunch Powerzone pzi 2250 2 channel amp. According to usedprice.com, it is 250 watt x 2 RMS @ 4 ohm. I obviously have the sub hooked up in parallel to amp. Will 500 watt rms @ 4 ohm amp burn a 250 watt rms @ 4 ohm voice coil? I'm new to car audio so please, if you could, go easy on the insults lol... From what I could tell the sub was still working fine when I took it out of the box and when I push in the cone I don't hear any scratching or popping.

 
Sub is on it's way out. Doubling the wattage a sub is rated for can certainly blow a sub. More importantly there is no real way to determine what your amp is actually putting out. Those amps are known not to do close to rated power and more importantly they clip and burn up subs. Getting into car audio there is a lot to learn. Especially aboit quality of certain brands and which ones to look out for.

 
Well, I actually have two of these subs and I was looking at the Rockford Fosgate R500X1D. If I were to hook both of the subs in parallel to this amp it would be 2 ohms on the amp. The amp is rated at 500 Watts x 1 @ 2-Ohms. That would match the subs perfectly. Do you think I could still get some life out of that sub if I did this?

 
Well the things I need are a new amp and a new box. (I don't know how to post pics on this site so I'll just try and describe my setup as good as I can) The box I have is ****** chipboard pickup truck box that is falling apart (My vehicle is a 2001 Nissan Pathfinder). I just have the stock receiver which doesn't have RCA so I had to use Line-Out Converter to get a RCA connection from my rear speakers. It is also handling the remote connection. I have already mentioned my amp and subs above. I've settled on this amp and box from amazon: AMP- Rockford Fosgate R500X1D Box- https://www.amazon.com/Subwoofer-Universal-Vented-Speaker-Enclosure/dp/B00IFEG5ZC/ref=sr_1_9?s=car&ie=UTF8&qid=1482530724&sr=1-9&keywords=subwoofer+box

Do you guys think this is a good buy for my situation?

 
Well the things I need are a new amp and a new box. (I don't know how to post pics on this site so I'll just try and describe my setup as good as I can) The box I have is ****** chipboard pickup truck box that is falling apart (My vehicle is a 2001 Nissan Pathfinder). I just have the stock receiver which doesn't have RCA so I had to use Line-Out Converter to get a RCA connection from my rear speakers. It is also handling the remote connection. I have already mentioned my amp and subs above. I've settled on this amp and box from amazon: AMP- Rockford Fosgate R500X1D Box- https://www.amazon.com/Subwoofer-Universal-Vented-Speaker-Enclosure/dp/B00IFEG5ZC/ref=sr_1_9?s=car&ie=UTF8&qid=1482530724&sr=1-9&keywords=subwoofer+box
Do you guys think this is a good buy for my situation?
no just save up for a proper setup. If you can, build your own box for find a local box builder to build one or find a generic 4 cubic feet tuned to 33-35hz box locally used. I'd look into getting real subs and a real amp so just save up and stop buying garbage.

 
If your subs are smelling funny it means you are exceeding their thermal limits (giving them too much power). Either back off a bit or beat them til they break and upgrade.

 
no just save up for a proper setup. If you can, build your own box for find a local box builder to build one or find a generic 4 cubic feet tuned to 33-35hz box locally used. I'd look into getting real subs and a real amp so just save up and stop buying garbage.
What would you consider a proper setup? I don't really need, nor do I want, an extremely nice and expensive setup... All I really want to do is add some good bass to elevate my driving experience.

 
I'm thinking about just trashing my entire setup and just starting fresh... I was looking at this package deal https://www.amazon.com/MTX-Terminator-TNE212D-200-Watt-Enclosure/dp/B001JECAM2/ref=sr_1_1?s=electronics&ie=UTF8&qid=1482554656&sr=1-1&keywords=car%2Bsubwoofers&th=1 and from what I can tell from the reviews and videos I've see online, they're pretty awesome. I would have to get an amp as well because apparently the optional one that comes with that bundle is complete garbage.

 
I'm thinking about just trashing my entire setup and just starting fresh... I was looking at this package deal https://www.amazon.com/MTX-Terminator-TNE212D-200-Watt-Enclosure/dp/B001JECAM2/ref=sr_1_1?s=electronics&ie=UTF8&qid=1482554656&sr=1-1&keywords=car%2Bsubwoofers&th=1 and from what I can tell from the reviews and videos I've see online, they're pretty awesome. I would have to get an amp as well because apparently the optional one that comes with that bundle is complete garbage.
Stop reading online reviews. They don't know anymore then you do. No offense, but it's the blind leading the blind.

 
What would you consider a proper setup? I don't really need, nor do I want, an extremely nice and expensive setup... All I really want to do is add some good bass to elevate my driving experience.
On the cheap, best upgrade right now is a good head unit and a 1k rms amp(you dont have to use all 1000 watts gain settings control power output)

However the main issue is your weak and dirty signal.

Head unit first. On the cheap, i Recommend a kenwood kdc x300, an be had for 80 to 100 shipped online. Gives a proper strong dedicated subwoofer signal. Guaranteed to be a lot louder off the bat with proper strong rca preouts

Then an amp. Ppi 1000.1 or audiopipe 1500 comes to mind on the budget side.

Then the box

Then subs.

 
On the cheap, best upgrade right now is a good head unit and a 1k rms amp(you dont have to use all 1000 watts gain settings control power output)
However the main issue is your weak and dirty signal.

Then an amp

Then the box

Then subs.
How do you know my signal is week/dirty?

 
How do you know my signal is week/dirty?
Its pretty common knowlege for anyone that has basic knowledge about car audio.

Fixed over 8 systems locally that used a stock head unit and a line out convertor. Horrible results everytime one is used. Stock Head units have a built in high pass filter that limits low frequencies to the speakers to prevent damage. You are basically amplifying a weak cut up signal with an amp with very little clean power output. Signal is definitely cr@ppy. Even expensive audiocontrol locs run into these problems. Stock head unit should always be the first thing you upgrade in these older cars.

 
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