Orion HCCA3000.1DSPLX Power

[.........]

This amp requires 3 each of power and ground. What is the usual means of routing power from the battery to the amp? Super large wire to a distribution block then size down to the amp?

Click to read more...

 

[HardofWhoring]

If I had to run 3 runs, I would just run 3 runs. You certainly won't save any money after buying two distribution blocks and larger wire. I would just measure out what I need, and triple that for a roll, with a little excess. Probably in a 50ft roll if you can get 3 out of that.

3 runs of 1/0 awg for a 3000w amp is definitely overkill. I see what they are saying on their page:

HCCA3000.1DSPLX - Orion Car Audio

ORION HCCA MONOBLOCK CLASS-D AMPLIFIER 3000 WATTS RMS

www.orioncaraudio.com

3000w / .88% efficient = 3409w
3409w / 12v = 284 amps. With the length from battery to amp, I would want something just bigger if it was ONE 1/0awg cable. Two cables would be more than enough.

I'm also running their midlevel amp, and that makes more than rated. This is their top amp, and I remember seeing this one dynoed. I knew it did well over rated.


& big D



That amp will do over 5K watts @ 1ohm @ 1%Thd

If I was running that, I would probably put all 3 in their for the hell of it. What are you powering with that?

 

[Doxquzme Premium Member]

Ultimately, it's whatever the need is to get the power to where the amp is located. Three 1/0 runs each, three 2/0 runs each using reducers, ets. Would need to know which amp, is there a 2nd battery, how long is the run, HO alt, big three upgrade etc. What are you running all the way around?

 

[TheBigPilferer]

Are you using this for competition? If you are, then I would use Knu Konceptz 4/0 gauge (if your battery is located in the front) ran to the rear of the vehicle. Instead of a traditional fused distribution block, you will need to use something like the SMD bus-bar style fuse blocks where you terminate with brass ring terminals. You'll need one that is 3 wide. This fuse block will be a solid bar on the input side and have 3 separate connection points on the other side.

I should add that you will need a larger fuse up front within 18" off the battery.

You will want a wider fuse block if you intend on powering more than just this 1 amp. You will then use 3 0 gauge runs to go to the 3 amp inputs. I would use 3 200 amp ANL fuses.

For the grounds, I would run 3 0 gauge runs to a similar styled bus bar, except minus the fuses and the 2nd bar on the other side. Then I would terminate to the chassis with 4/0. I like using ground blocks bc it makes it easier to ground additional or future amps, plus you minimize the chance of ground loops by not using multiple chassis ground points.

-----------------------

If your battery is in the rear (or you have a 2nd battery or lithium etc) and you don't have any other amps to hook up, I would probably just run 3 separate 0 gauge runs to the amp.

Depending on your battery terminals, it might be easier (and tidier) to still use the first method. I'm also suspecting that if you're using this particular amplifier, then you're highly likely to have additional amps for your door speakers or be wanting to add them in the future.

Orion put 3 power/grounds on the amp to make 100% sure that this amp is not bottlenecked in the power supply during an SPL run. More surface area is always better, and in theory this should get more juice into the power supply faster. This is why you'll see lots of guys with 3000 watt amps that have a single input using the dual input adapters that let you double up the wiring. It certainly can't hurt.

With that said, 3 0 gauge inputs is mathematically not necessary and Knu Konceptz rates their oversized 0 gauge at 300 amps continuous. Still, I would use all 3. More/thicker wire means less resistance which means less power lost. I doubt you'd spend the coin for the best Orion amplifier if you did not care about this. Orion probably anticipates that the SPL crowd will wire to the dirt (wiring subs to .5 or even .25 ohms).

 

[TheBigPilferer]

I wanted to add something to this just so you know. I just looked at the Orion Web site and their pictures and description show the exact same 3 x 0 gauge terminals on the 17000 watt amplifier. It was likely cheaper for them to just use the same terminals.

Still, the recommendation I gave you is definitely the best way to do it. It's definitely overkill, but if I were personally running an amp over 3000 watts on my subs, plus 2 4 channels of at least 100 x 4, then I would definitely do it this way and likely buy fuse blocks and ground blocks with a couple extra slots so I can more easily upgrade or use an inverter etc.

 

[.........]

This setup is in the planning phase right now. I don't know what will ultimately end up in the car. As of this moment, the HCCA3000.1DSPLX, two HCCA122 subs, probably a couple XTR500.4 for mids and highs. I don't even know what will go in the doors, dash, and rear deck yet. I just want to get my head wrapped around how to set up a high power system like this. The only systems I have ever had up to this point are a single 4ga or 0ga from the stock battery with no alt. upgrade.

So for the runs from the engine area what is needed for connection there? Is there a multi tap that goes on the battery?

Thanks for the replies.

 

[.........]

... What are you powering with that?

HCCA3000.1DSPLX, probably a couple XTR500.4. Possibly, maybe couple XTR1000.4.

 

[djdilliodon!]

What kind of car is it?

 

[.........]

What kind of car is it?

2000 Toyota Camry

 

[djdilliodon!]

2000 Toyota Camry

From battery to the trunk, let’s call the run 15 ft. 1/0 ofc can flow 350 amps at 20 ft without issue and thats continuously. 2/0 can do 400 amps. These amps while playing music will not draw this type of current continuously. Two 1/0 runs will be more then you ever need, run to a distro block and split however you need.

 

[Doxquzme Premium Member]

Pretty decent price on 2/0 gauge wire. not quite as flexible as KnuKonceptz, but price similar to their 1/0. Very good all strands tinned, fine high strand count OFC copper. I run my power/ground installs under my car, no loom needed.

Amazon product ASIN B000NI5C8Y
And, assuming that the inputs are summed, no need to do anything else but use a 2/0 to 1/0 reducer at the amp.

I would also consider parallel grounding in this instance.

https://www.bestcaraudio.com/car-audio-myths-you-cant-ground-a-car-audio-amplifier-to-the-battery/

 

[HardofWhoring]

This setup is in the planning phase right now. I don't know what will ultimately end up in the car. As of this moment, the HCCA3000.1DSPLX, two HCCA122 subs, probably a couple XTR500.4 for mids and highs. I don't even know what will go in the doors, dash, and rear deck yet. I just want to get my head wrapped around how to set up a high power system like this. The only systems I have ever had up to this point are a single 4ga or 0ga from the stock battery with no alt. upgrade.

So for the runs from the engine area what is needed for connection there? Is there a multi tap that goes on the battery?

Thanks for the replies.

Yes there are several similar styles.
Here is what I use. I originally had side mounted terminals, and liked the design, because the first style I used, would spin, and these were balanced.

Boat Steering Solutions - Terminal Tamer

If you found us through the Ship Shape TV show, WELCOME!!! Boat Steering Solutions is SeaStar factory trained & authorized to remanufacture and service hydraulic steering systems.

www.boatsteer.com

Amazon product ASIN B07T9G2FZF

You can find them with two and I want to say up to to 10. Search the amazon pages, and you cna find quite a few similar styles.

The only ones I would say to avoid are the SKY HIGH terminals like this:
The set screw (to secure to the terminal) is really small, and won't even hold if you mount em flat to the top. Not a chance if you mount em to a side terminal.

AS FOR THE DISTRIBUTION BLOCK:
I personally still don't get why you would rather use a distribution block instead of just running two cables, but I think what you should do is, go look at where you plan on running that. See where you're going to feed that wire and have it sit from battery to amp. Trying to get through the firewall, might make this decision for you. If I was going to split I would use larger than 2/0 for two 1/0. Depending on how much power you want out of that, 2/0 might be too small.

 

[Firewalker]

I looked at that amplifier and it is a beast no doubt. Some of those HCCA Orions in the 3-4.5k have hit as much as 13,000 watts on the dyno tests.

Personally I would just run 2/0 to a distribution block then split it off to 1/0. Welding wire is a great cable for that sort of stuff and can be bought in 30 foot runs for around 100 bucks from a few places. It has been my choice of power and ground wire for a few years.

 

[.........]

So after looking at pricing it seems maybe it will be cost effective to run the 2/0 single cable rather than two 1/0 runs.

Keep in mind this is all in the planning stage. I have never built a system with these specs. My truck has a single 1/0 run to an XTR2500.1Dz and XTR750.4. Pretty simple. But with this one I'll have to upgrade the alternator also along with the 'big3' upgrade.

Yes there are several similar styles.
Here is what I use. I originally had side mounted terminals, and liked the design, because the first style I used, would spin, and these were balanced.

Boat Steering Solutions - Terminal Tamer

If you found us through the Ship Shape TV show, WELCOME!!! Boat Steering Solutions is SeaStar factory trained & authorized to remanufacture and service hydraulic steering systems.

www.boatsteer.com

Amazon product ASIN B07T9G2FZF

You can find them with two and I want to say up to to 10. Search the amazon pages, and you cna find quite a few similar styles.

The only ones I would say to avoid are the SKY HIGH terminals like this:
The set screw (to secure to the terminal) is really small, and won't even hold if you mount em flat to the top. Not a chance if you mount em to a side terminal.

AS FOR THE DISTRIBUTION BLOCK:
I personally still don't get why you would rather use a distribution block instead of just running two cables, but I think what you should do is, go look at where you plan on running that. See where you're going to feed that wire and have it sit from battery to amp. Trying to get through the firewall, might make this decision for you. If I was going to split I would use larger than 2/0 for two 1/0. Depending on how much power you want out of that, 2/0 might be too small.

I like those blocks. Maybe they will be handy when I do the 'big3' upgrade.

 

[.........]

Can anyone confirm this is fairly correct?