Orion HCCA3000.1DSPLX Power

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This amp requires 3 each of power and ground. What is the usual means of routing power from the battery to the amp? Super large wire to a distribution block then size down to the amp?

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Found this on amazon. What are you guys' thoughts?

Eagle HIgh 200 HIGH Amp Alternator​

Amazon product ASIN B08BXNQBM8

 

[djdilliodon!]

Alternators | HP-13754-320 | Autotech

autotechengineeringusa.com

I have a 320 amp from them in my Honda and it’s flawless.

 

[TheBigPilferer]

I've never heard of that alternator brand. I would be leary of Amazon and eBay for alternators. Cheap ones advertise higher output, but you have to be at a high engine RPM to realize it. Basically, the output is unusable. They also tend to have questionable diodes/rectifiers/etc. These cheap alternators frequently put out less current than your factory alt at idle.

What you need to look for is high idle output. Good brands optimize the design balancing all factors to work will within the physical size of your alternators case. To go beyond this, you have to use a large-case alternator which will require custom brackets (fairly expensive) and may or may not be possible to physically mount in your vehicle.

Depending on the alt, it may have a smaller pulley which may require you to also buy a ~1/2” shorter belt. Oftentimes, on vehicles where multiple amperage options are offered, the smallest option will work with the factory belt and the largest will require a shorter belt.

Btw, I originally recommended knu konceptz bc that's what I personally use, and the reason I mentioned their 4/0 is because they do not offer a size in between this and 0 gauge. I personally would rather use one large run than multiple smaller runs. For lesser installs, I use the Recoil OFC kits bc I'm affiliated with them and an authorized dealer. Knu is reasonably priced for being high quality and they also offer a convenient one-stop shop for RCAs, distribution blocks, fuse holders, speaker wire, accessories, etc.

Welding cable is always cheaper, but you do need to consider that Knu or Sky High 0 gauge cable is oversized and is the same as 1 size bigger in welding cable. The important thing here is to just not buy really cheap wire bc it frequently is undersized and will just have a really thick jacket. Also, a lot of the high quality car audio cable is tinned - they do this for corrosion resistance - I wouldn't be too concerned about this feature. It certainly can't hurt, but it's not worth paying extra for. I've never seen high quality OFC wire of proper size fail in 20 years.

Just avoid CCA wire. You can cut certain corners in car audio, but wire is not one of them. I've had numerous people come to me with amps going into protect or even blowing due to inadequate electrical. It never fails to amaze me how some people will buy a Taramps HD3000 and then use 4 gauge CCA wire on factory electrical and then wonder why their amp blew!

In my present personal setup, the single highest expense was wiring. Of course, I test out a fair amount of gear, so I wanted to be able to quickly switch/add things easily.

The point is... running wire is a pain, and you don't want to have to do it again later. I know you said you won't upgrade, but experience has shown me that the type of person doing more than the basic subwoofer addition or factory speaker swap is likely to upgrade many times.

The only thing worse than wire is sound dampening treatment. I recommend ResoNix products for this area, if you're interested. 2 hccas on that amp will make you hear rattles you never knew existed lol. It's not cheap, but it's by far the best quality and performance. I use the CLD and the foam speaker rings in my personal vehicle.

The posts are accurate about running an additional ground to the battery. I never have anyone do this for basic installs, although I do strongly encourage people to use a ground block instead of running multiple grounds for different amps. Of course, if you have a secondary battery, I recommend grounding to that battery negative and then grounding to the chassis from the battery negative with a large gauge. The ground block is optional in this scenario - sometimes it's cheaper and/or easier to just use separate runs to the battery.

Make sure you build a sturdy amp rack and that you build a proper box for those subs. I haven't really ever heard a bad sub, but I've heard a plethora of poor enclosures. You'll definitely want a double baffle and adequate bracing for subs of that magnitude, along with adequate port area and proper tuning frequency.

 

[Popwarhomie 5,000+ posts]

Parts Search - High output alternators for Car Audio Made in USA

Find the right high-output alternator for your vehicle. High amperage alternators in 30 different colors. Find your make and model.

autotechengineeringusa.com

 

[HardofWhoring]

if you take 3000w divide by amp efficiency which is 88%. 3000 / .88 = 3409w. That is your amp draw. Then divide that by voltage, 12v when off, 14.4 (used to be standard) when running. 3409 / 14.4 = 236 amps. That's the amperage draw at full volume maxed out, when you are setup to run 3,000w.
If you go 4,000w / 14.4v =277.7 amps.

Then you need to add on to what your vehicle does. Generally your stock alt is going to do everything it can maxed out: EFI, ECU, electric fans, low beams, high beams, brake lights, AC, interior lights, (stock) radio, cig lighter, dash lights, and have a little bit of head room.

Your amp doesn't constantly draw 277 amps even when you have it full volume, just when the heavy bass hits. Between that it's recharging, so it's relative to what music you listen to. Rock and country have more time between to recharge. Rap and generated bass music has a little. With 277 amps, I would say the range is about 200 -250, and you would never have a drop in voltage.

With your vehicle and you live somewhere cool enough that you don't use the AC, or hot enough where you use the electric fans, then you're never going to need 2/3rd of what your stock alt can do.

IMO, an alt is something you DO NOT want to buy twice, because you are going to upgrade to 12% more. A good one is a decent chunk of money for your system. With your amp being capable of 5K watts, and if you EVER MIGHT want to upgrade subs to that amount, I would go bigger now. I honestly wouldn't expect to find too many options for a 2000 Camry though. If you can find 250-300 you should be good.

Also know that when you do go shopping for an alt, there are two numbers that matter.
Amperage output at or near idle, (what will it do when you're at a stoplight), &
RPM needed for max output. (What will it put out at cruising speed).
A 300amp ebay alt is going to do less at idle than your stock ~100 amp alt, and won't do full output until over 3K rpm. Well where do you cruise at? Will you ever even see that output? A high quality alt will do most at idle, and full output around 2K rpm. Think about how you drive, and where you listen to it, and know what RPM you cruise at, or are usually driving at. Get those two numbers before you buy, and if they won't or can't give them to you, then keep shopping. That's going to be the difference between a $200 alt, and a $600 alt.

Found this on amazon. What are you guys' thoughts?

Eagle HIgh 200 HIGH Amp Alternator​

Amazon product ASIN B08BXNQBM8

 

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I have created a post with all related information regarding the build under this link:

2000 Camry Build

I guess this would be the best place to put this. Keep all of it in one place. So I plan to install a new sound system in my 2000 Toyota Camry. So far I know I'll be using two Orion HCCA124 subs with an Orion HCCA 3000.1DSPLX. For power, I'll be running a single run of 4/0 power and ground...

www.caraudio.com