Orion XTR PRO 3500.1DX

The CT is a reputable brand; anyone that says otherwise has ulterior motives. This CT is a Brazilian build. If you’re going that rout and that price range, Taramps MD 8000 2 Ohm Amplifier HD 8K 8000.1 at $498 on eBay and you get 2.5 times the power. If the subs you want come in dual 4ohm versions, you could even run the Taramps at 4 ohms and still exceed both the Orion and the TC, by 1000+ watts, AND still save $100! I’m a fan of running amps at their halfway ability, more efficient, better damping of the woofer cone, less heat and work for the amplifier. That said, I've made no secret that I’m a fan of Korean amplifiers, overall, which this Orion is. They’re not as voltage sensitive, better headroom (usually), etc. With Korean amps, generally speaking, you pay to play. Shear power, Brazilin designs are hard to beat, watt for dollar. I think that one extra battery would suffice, two is definitely overkill, and nothing gained really. My 2 cents.
I appreciate your 2 cents I love learning about car audio. I find it very fascinating and I’m always willing to learn. I will say I don’t think I need a 8000 watt amp that’s a little too much juice. I thought about going taramp but something just rubs me the wrong way about those amps for some reason. I felt that way about D4S amp the jp84 and I went ahead and bought it and I fully regretted it. I got rid of it immediately. So I would like to stick to my gut feeling. I would want to run an amp with plenty of head room at half ability to get the best efficiency and results. I have an every now and then with my current sundown 1500d it overheats since I’m running it to its max capability. That’s where the taramps caught my eye with the built in fan but something is just rubbing me the wrong way about those amps. Mind you I could be completely wrong about them. That’s where someone recommended the Orion amp and I remember back in the day they used to be the gold standard.
 
Well, you can always dial anything down, but if this is all you know you will need:.

Amazon product ASIN B00DDZQSHS
That 2500 is a little smaller if size matters, and will save a little.
The cobalt is their budget line, the HCCA is the best stuff, and this one is in the middle.
I looked up the 3k HCCA and it’s $700!!! Holy smokes!! The 3500 xtr still catches my eye but a lot of the reviews say they don’t come with the birth certificate anymore… that’s suspect! So from my understand on this thread Is to NOT buy the CT amp lol
 
Someone recommended me this amp on this forum but i wanted to make sure i got the electrical for it. I have as follows:

2 XS D5100 batteries.
Big 3
270 amp alt.

Subs wise:
2 12" SSA Icons 1250 watts per

I was going to get the CT Sounds ATv2-3000.1d That amp is $600. When i see some posts on this forum people say ct sounds has good amps. When i look at diy mobile audio people say ct sounds isnt a reputable brand. I just bought the CT-150.4d for my comp set and it is doing wonders for me. I wanted to get another ct amp to compliment the component set amp. I wanted the AT version because of the remote knob showing voltage and kill switch option and i heard that amp has good spl. Doing more research after almost buying the AT amp the Orion XTR PRO 3500.1DX is looking to be the better option. Orion is a well known brand and even though it doesnt have the fancy knob its also $150 cheaper and most likely puts out more power than the ct sounds amp. So "A" i wanted to know if i have enough electrical upgrades to push the orion efficiently. "B" if i should stick the the more expensive CT ATv2-3000.1d over the Orion XTR PRO 3500.1DX. Thoughts?
I assume you purchased 2 of the dual 4 ohm subs and you are running the dual coils in parallel for a 2ohm load and then the subs in parallel again for the 1 ohm load. With that in mind, you could get the Taramps 8000.1, wire the two coils on each sub in series then the two woofers in parallel for a 4ohm load and you will be getting 4800 watts, all for around $450.00. Draw is relative to output so you would still be fine. The nice thing about doing this is you get boatloads of output (4800 watts) and the amplifier is more efficient, runs cooler and controls the woofer better as the damping factor is much higher at 4ohms than at 1, usually at least twice as high. An amp with a damping factor rated at ≥150 at 4ohm may be as low as ≥50 at 1ohm. Since the minimum number one looks for is ≥80, that is significant. Just food for thought, all in all, good amps either way you choose to go.
 
I looked up the 3k HCCA and it’s $700!!! Holy smokes!! The 3500 xtr still catches my eye but a lot of the reviews say they don’t come with the birth certificate anymore… that’s suspect! So from my understand on this thread Is to NOT buy the CT amp lol
If you read those reviews on amazon, it's more likely that the amp they bought was returned without it.

I wouldn't mind trying to talk you into that amp, but honestly there's other stuff to consider. You should really ask yourself if this is the guaranteed final build you might do. If you MIGHT want to change something, you might want to buy that amp now, and just dial it down for these.

I bought mine, knowing it is the last sub amp I am going to buy for this build until something blows up. If it wasn't I might have gone for a taramps spart 3, (which will do more wattage than this, and give you the options at 1 or 2 ohm if you want to change your build). If you already know this is it, then go for it. IF YOU MIGHT WANT AN AMP that will give you more options down the road, then I would probably keep looking unless you have some other limitations that this will work for.
 
I appreciate your 2 cents I love learning about car audio. I find it very fascinating and I’m always willing to learn. I will say I don’t think I need a 8000 watt amp that’s a little too much juice. I thought about going taramp but something just rubs me the wrong way about those amps for some reason. I felt that way about D4S amp the jp84 and I went ahead and bought it and I fully regretted it. I got rid of it immediately. So I would like to stick to my gut feeling. I would want to run an amp with plenty of head room at half ability to get the best efficiency and results. I have an every now and then with my current sundown 1500d it overheats since I’m running it to its max capability. That’s where the taramps caught my eye with the built in fan but something is just rubbing me the wrong way about those amps. Mind you I could be completely wrong about them. That’s where someone recommended the Orion amp and I remember back in the day they used to be the gold standard.
Just posted something relative to these latest comments, about the same time, great minds think alike?

Orion, offers some great products. It's my understanding that these are their mid line models. I've not used them in years, and when I last did, it was only .5 ohm stable competition HCCA's, brute force underrated amps, competition killers in the day. That800.1 could be run at 4ohms all day long with your subs, cooling with the two fans to boot, heat should not be an issue.
 
Just posted something relative to these latest comments, about the same time, great minds think alike?

Orion, offers some great products. It's my understanding that these are their mid line models. I've not used them in years, and when I last did, it was only .5 ohm stable competition HCCA's, brute force underrated amps, competition killers in the day. That800.1 could be run at 4ohms all day long with your subs, cooling with the two fans to boot, heat should not be an issue.
Those HCCAs take 3 inputs for power and ground. Power hungry amp. Thats wild. Does the taramps amps able to use bass knobs? Im a huge fan of them and they are very convenient.
 
I looked up the 3k HCCA and it’s $700!!! Holy smokes!! The 3500 xtr still catches my eye but a lot of the reviews say they don’t come with the birth certificate anymore… that’s suspect! So from my understand on this thread Is to NOT buy the CT amp lol
Nothing wrong with ct amps..I'd probably do ct over orion becausei haven't heard a single decent thing about orion's customer service 😂
 
Those HCCAs take 3 inputs for power and ground. Power hungry amp. Thats wild. Does the taramps amps able to use bass knobs? Im a huge fan of them and they are very convenient.
Yes, they do. As for the Taramps remote control, it is for use with the EQ they sell, not as a remote bass knob. They are not very sophisticated and are just your basic attenuator pots. They are available on eBay for like $8. I generally don't use remoter BASS knobs; well not since I started using DSP units. There is a guy out on Mercari (an established seller), looks to be selling a new one of these for $379, shipped. He is apparently allowing offers too. I'd offer $350.00 and if comes back with $379, still a great deal - heck, if it's still out there in a couple of weeks, might get it myself, just because!!! With that kind of savings, you could purchase a remote bass knob. Generally, while the remote knobs might be convenient, most attenuation on a HU that has subwoofer out makes them a bit redundant.

https://www.mercari.com/us/item/m54...BFQ_VZJzueX5O8fumJyDPcOLYl30RSt0aAhqQEALw_wcB

If you must - Taramps BASS knob:

https://www.ebay.com/itm/2349906698...d=link&campid=5335951755&toolid=20001&mkevt=1

Better - If you like the use of a good bass remote, then one of these Taramps that incorporate and EQ and volume control would work nice for $53.00.

 
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