Should you run low power, large subs

[spokey9]

Here's a sweet old school install...and a good example of what can be done with low power in a proper build

 

[Doxquzme Premium Member]

I recommend your amp have 50% to double the rated RMS of your sub. With that in mind, a 2000 watt sub for the combined or single rating 1000 to 1250 watt RMS sub configuration. I run a Hooligan 3K to a pair of Focal 33v2s rated at 400 RMS each or 800 RMS combined. I got a deal on the Hooligan 3k after initially getting a great deal on an EXL 2500.1 which I sold and broke even on. I wire the subs to 8 ohms each,the run them in parallel at 4 ohms to the amp. This gives me a cool running amp that as with all amps, runs more efficiently at 4 ohms and has the best control (damping) of the woofers. I also have all four voice coils wired directly to binding post on the outside of the box via 5 way binding post. This allows me to show off occasionally by wiring the subs to 1 ohms and playing them to the limits of the 2 subs and the box they are in.

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[JuiceTin]

How does 2 of these sound with this amp down4sound amp
I figured ima just run 1000watts

 

[Doxquzme Premium Member]

How does 2 of these sound with this amp down4sound amp
I figured ima just run 1000watts

Subs are pretty decent. I Would consider getting this amp, more power, same price point ($10 less). 2 ohms to this amp (the two 15s in parallel) still gives you 1000 watts as opposed to 850 for the D4S.

Amazon product ASIN B0BN2BG2M1

 

[JuiceTin]

Subs are pretty decent. I Would consider getting this amp, more power, same price point ($10 less). 2 ohms to this amp (the two 15s in parallel) still gives you 1000 watts as opposed to 850 for the D4S.

Amazon product ASIN B0BN2BG2M1

Is there a big difference between 2ohm and 1ohm and also I'm on all stock electrical with a 130amp alternator so would that be to much power for my alt to handle?

 

[JuiceTin]

Subs are pretty decent. I Would consider getting this amp, more power, same price point ($10 less). 2 ohms to this amp (the two 15s in parallel) still gives you 1000 watts as opposed to 850 for the D4S.

Amazon product ASIN B0BN2BG2M1

Also they are dvc 4 ohm so couldn't you only wire them to 4 or 1 ohm not 2

 

[Doxquzme Premium Member]

Also they are dvc 4 ohm so couldn't you only wire them to 4 or 1 ohm not 2

Ha, I looked for that, was under the impression that they were singel VCs. Either way, at 1 Ohm, you're looking at 1500 watts versus 1000, gives you headroom, don't have to set the gains as loud. I always go about 50% to twice the rated power for my amp to the combined RMS of the subs. You'll be at 1000 watts with the gains set at about 70% of maximum, and for $10 less, no brainer. Better to have too much power than the other way around. As for the electrical, you're going to get a lot of opinions on that. I would say that a 15-20AH AGM in the rear next to the amps would suffice to prevent issues. Something like one of these:

Amazon product ASIN B08VDLVRLR
I would try the system without it. If you never see the lights dim, may not need it all. Next time you need to replace the cars battery, you could go with a larger AGM under the hood which is an option too.

You could also wire one subs VCs in series to 8 ohms, one subs VCs in parallel for 2 ohms, wire the both of them together in parallel to the amp and at 1.6 ohms still be looking at around 1200 watts. Amps run cooler and have more control at high-er'sh impedance loads. This would allow you to take advantage of the options the extra power give you without breaking the bank or the subs.

 

[JuiceTin]

Ha, I looked for that, was under the impression that they were singel VCs. Either way, at 1 Ohm, you're looking at 1500 watts versus 1000, gives you headroom, don't have to set the gains as loud. I always go about 50% to twice the rated power for my amp to the combined RMS of the subs. You'll be at 1000 watts with the gains set at about 70% of maximum, and for $10 less, no brainer. Better to have too much power than the other way around. As for the electrical, you're going to get a lot of opinions on that. I would say that a 15-20AH AGM in the rear next to the amps would suffice to prevent issues. Something like one of these:

Amazon product ASIN B08VDLVRLR
I would try the system without it. If you never see the lights dim, may not need it all. Next time you need to replace the cars battery, you could go with a larger AGM under the hood which is an option too.

You could also wire one subs VCs in series to 8 ohms, one subs VCs in parallel for 2 ohms, wire the both of them together in parallel to the amp and at 1.6 ohms still be looking at around 1200 watts. Amps run cooler and have more control at high-er'sh impedance loads. This would allow you to take advantage of the options the extra power give you without breaking the bank or the subs.

I'll go with the 1500watt at 1 ohm and see if I need a battery, but you mentioned higher ohms, Im really just going for spl not sq so I'll wire them down to 1 ohm

 

[Doxquzme Premium Member]

Here's the thing. At 1.6ohms the amp will breathe a little and output will still exceed the rated power of the subs. There isn't any reason to run them at 1ohm with the higher powered amp or at 1500 watts if your subs max rated power is 500 each, 1000 together right? You would be running the D4S at its's upper limit to get it to that 1000 watt threshold. With the higher power amp, you can run it as I suggested, at 1.6 ohms and you will actually pull close to 1200 which is more than the subs are rated at. it's just better that way.

For spl this is ideal, allows you to reach the maximum output threshold of the subs without making the amplifier work at maximum effort to get you there, comparatively

 

[1aespinoza 10+ year member]

There isn't any reason to run them at 1ohm with the higher powered amp or at 1500 watt

I would still run it at 1 Ohm. Lowering the gain from it's optimum match will allow the amp plenty of headroom so it will not heat up. Also, class D amps are designed for efficiency and music is dynamic; so even if used at 1500 watts, I doubt overheating would occur if amp is given space to dissipate heat.

 

[Doxquzme Premium Member]

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I would still run it at 1 Ohm. Lowering the gain from it's optimum match will allow the amp plenty of headroom so it will not heat up. Also, class D amps are designed for efficiency and music is dynamic; so even if used at 1500 watts, I doubt overheating would occur if amp is given space to dissipate heat.

True. Either way, less power that still exceeds the overall RMS rating ot the subs theOP wants to use. Amps do have better damping at the higher ohm rating. Either way, Win/win!

 

[hispls 5,000+ posts]

How does 2 of these sound with this amp down4sound amp
I figured ima just run 1000watts

I would not buy consumer electronics from an e-celebrity myself, but I think you're on the right track and if you buy/build a proper box I think you'd do pretty well with this.

Is there a big difference between 2ohm and 1ohm and also I'm on all stock electrical with a 130amp alternator so would that be to much power for my alt to handle?

Mostly the difference is just matching the load to the amp. If you get an amp designed to drive 1 ohm, buy sub(s) that will make a 1 ohm load. For what you're trying to accomplish here this will be fine.
I'll throw in a plug here because these guys are local to me and do great work:

Sundown Audio | SIA-1250D [USED/REFURBISHED]

sales@theamplab.net

theamplab.net

Good price on legit 1200W if you don't mind buying refurb and want to save a buck. Those SIA amps aren't the most amazing thing going and they're priced accordingly but IMO a decent value and at a price point where if you get a few years out of them you're doing OK.

 

[TheBigPilferer]

Just for examples sake regarding electrical, I have 1400 watts total between both my amps and my system has no trouble running everything max volume with AC on full, bright headlights, etc on. I'm charging at 14.37v and my voltage never has dropped below 14.17v. This is with a 100 amp alternator and basic lead acid battery.

As far as subs, run the biggest ones you can fit and put them in a ported box. 32 Hz is good tuning for a daily driver.