Skar RP800.1D Amp protection mode

[Cartmale]

Hello, I'm pretty much trying to figure out why amp won't come out of protect mode. I started with a PAC LP7-2 LOC because I didn't replace my headunit, but that made it go straight into protect mode and remote wire was only reading at about 4V. I then went to walmart and bought one which makes it bounce in and out protect mode until in inevitably goes right back into it as shown in the video. () It is only outputting about 6V at remote wire, not the 12V that I keep reading is necessary. I'm buying a kicker one off amazon that says 12V so hopefully that'll work. However, I did try to directly jump the remote wire from the power on the amp right into the remote terminal and it still didn't work. Anyway, I did also send my amp back to skar for the warranty as my friends, brother, and I are suspecting it may be the amp itself which would be a huge relief because I've been stressing over this for the past week and have poured almost 24 hours into it at this point. Other than that all my connections seem to be fine, tried running with just power ground and remote and it was still in protection. I believe my grounds are good, my brother says they are and my dad that is an electrical engineer also said they're good. Getting 13-14V at the power on the amp so I'm not getting too little voltage. Anyway, this was probably really hard to read because I was bouncing all over the place, but if anybody has any experience with this same issue please let me know or if you have any ideas. Any help is greatly appreciated.

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[audiobaun 5,000+ posts]

Hello, I'm pretty much trying to figure out why amp won't come out of protect mode. I started with a PAC LP7-2 LOC because I didn't replace my headunit, but that made it go straight into protect mode and remote wire was only reading at about 4V. I then went to walmart and bought one which makes it bounce in and out protect mode until in inevitably goes right back into it as shown in the video. () It is only outputting about 6V at remote wire, not the 12V that I keep reading is necessary. I'm buying a kicker one off amazon that says 12V so hopefully that'll work. However, I did try to directly jump the remote wire from the power on the amp right into the remote terminal and it still didn't work. Anyway, I did also send my amp back to skar for the warranty as my friends, brother, and I are suspecting it may be the amp itself which would be a huge relief because I've been stressing over this for the past week and have poured almost 24 hours into it at this point. Other than that all my connections seem to be fine, tried running with just power ground and remote and it was still in protection. I believe my grounds are good, my brother says they are and my dad that is an electrical engineer also said they're good. Getting 13-14V at the power on the amp so I'm not getting too little voltage. Anyway, this was probably really hard to read because I was bouncing all over the place, but if anybody has any experience with this same issue please let me know or if you have any ideas. Any help is greatly appreciated.

Your father is an Electrical Engineer and didnt find the issue??
Simply pull that amplifier and test it at the 12v Battery with connecting the remote to the 12v source and if it goes into protect, then the amplifier is faulty. Try that and get back to us here. Takes about ten min. to test at the battery if that(+-+ and -to- at the battery post and remote wire to Poss+ and it should turn on. Same as a bench test with 12v power supply to test for power On/Off

 

[Cartmale]

Your father is an Electrical Engineer and didnt find the issue??
Simply pull that amplifier and test it at the 12v Battery with connecting the remote to the 12v source and if it goes into protect, then the amplifier is faulty. Try that and get back to us here. Takes about ten min. to test at the battery if that(+-+ and -to- at the battery post and remote wire to Poss+ and it should turn on. Same as a bench test with 12v power supply to test for power On/Off

Yeah I know I'm surprised he didn't find the issue. I don't have the amp anymore as it's being sent back to SKAR under warranty, but I tested it in a similar way. I had the power and ground connected from the battery with the wiring kit and it was getting 13-14V. I then took my remote wire and jumped it from the power terminal on the amp to the remote terminal on the amp. It was reading 13-14V, however it still went right into protect.

 

[audiobaun 5,000+ posts]

Yeah I know I'm surprised he didn't find the issue. I don't have the amp anymore as it's being sent back to SKAR under warranty, but I tested it in a similar way. I had the power and ground connected from the battery with the wiring kit and it was getting 13-14V. I then took my remote wire and jumped it from the power terminal on the amp to the remote terminal on the amp. It was reading 13-14V, however it still went right into protect.

Ya man.. She No Bueno for sure. At least you have it under warranty

 

[Cartmale]

Ya man.. She No Bueno for sure. At least you have it under warranty

Had a feeling, but who knows it may not be. Anything is possible (I’m saying this as if the wiring in my car and my amp can hear me and I’m trying to trick it into working). Anyway I really appreciate you taking your time to help me out and I hope you don’t have any of these issues ever lol.

 

[audiobaun 5,000+ posts]

Had a feeling, but who knows it may not be. Anything is possible (I’m saying this as if the wiring in my car and my amp can hear me and I’m trying to trick it into working). Anyway I really appreciate you taking your time to help me out and I hope you don’t have any of these issues ever lol.

Man.. Ive been in the game too long. Ive blown so much chit up in my time that I prob could have paid cash for a HellCat by now. LOL

 

[audiobaun 5,000+ posts]

Had a feeling, but who knows it may not be. Anything is possible (I’m saying this as if the wiring in my car and my amp can hear me and I’m trying to trick it into working). Anyway I really appreciate you taking your time to help me out and I hope you don’t have any of these issues ever lol.

Well.. There could be an issue with the vehicle supply run possibly??? A Cut in the supply wire from the Firewall if no grommet is used and grounding out? or Poor connection at the Fuse/Battery/Distro block//amp terminals/Poor ground connection/Loose connections/ Bad subwoofer/Bad Fuse connection. It could be anything really?? Thats why I like to take the amp Out and go directly to a 12v source and then there is only 3 short wires and nothing else to be ruled out. It works 99.99% of the time man.. or at least for me for the last 25+ years.

 

[Cartmale]

Man.. Ive been in the game too long. Ive blown so much chit up in my time that I prob could have paid cash for a HellCat by now. LOL

Lol. At least I know I'm not the only one that lost/may lose money on car audio

 

[Cartmale]

Well.. There could be an issue with the vehicle supply run possibly??? A Cut in the supply wire from the Firewall if no grommet is used and grounding out? or Poor connection at the Fuse/Battery/Distro block//amp terminals/Poor ground connection/Loose connections/ Bad subwoofer/Bad Fuse connection. It could be anything really?? Thats why I like to take the amp Out and go directly to a 12v source and then there is only 3 short wires and nothing else to be ruled out. It works 99.99% of the time man.. or at least for me for the last 25+ years.

Ill try it when I get the amp back, especially if the forbidden protect light goes on. I don't think it's grounding out anywhere because I still get correct voltage on power and ground. Not really sure... I'll figure it out someday (hopefully)