System Keeps Killing Amps! HELP!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

[340dustya 10+ year member]

some power acoustik stuff is pretty cheap. but the mofos are one of the best 12's or 15's you can get. they out perform even the pricier L7's. and my old power acoustik amp BAMF is not a bad amp eather. and yes a 4000 watt system is "POWERFUL IN A CAR THATS ELECTRICAL SYSTEM IS FROM 1973"

 

[340dustya 10+ year member]

just watch this old video of my mofos when they were on my power acoustik BAMF

 

[on1wheel01 10+ year member]

some power acoustik stuff is pretty cheap. but the mofos are one of the best 12's or 15's you can get. they out perform even the pricier L7's. and my old power acoustik amp BAMF is not a bad amp eather. and yes a 4000 watt system is "POWERFUL IN A CAR THATS ELECTRICAL SYSTEM IS FROM 1973"

This statement has fail all over it. Best 12's or 15's you can get? No friend. I hope your not including fi dc re sundown and all the other superior brands. That bamf is only pushing 1k-1500 watts. Thats not powerful at all im sorry. And seeing how you had no electrical to back it up your prob not even seeing that. Pa is pretty much all cheap, can it be loud yes but still cheap. All the equip you have mentioned so far is sub-par. No offense but it is what it is.

And as for your vid, well flex is impressive to some true. But a old car will rattle likle crazy especially if you have no deadner.

There are many vids to be found with mad flex. Like these of mine. My car has 2-3 layers (depending on location) of deadner, and 5 cans of expanding foam in the trunk. Still have pretty good flex(even though I tried to get rid of it all, as flexing makes you loose db's.

[video=youtube;do-T7nh5UFc]

 

[340dustya 10+ year member]

your system is hitting pretty hard but newer cars are much easier to flex. the sheet metal is like tissue paper compared to my sheet metal. my car is made of streight 16 guage steel, trust me i have been doing body work on it for years. it is like a tank compared to what newer cars use. i think its 24 guage. i threw my system in my friends civic once and everything was flexing. even the front bumper. and i said that the mofos are some of the best budget subs you can get. sure they dont out perform btl's or tc sounds but they are great fot the money. as for the class d BAMF 4000 w. it definatly pushes more than 1k. that would mean that i was getting that flex form 250 watts on each sub

 

[on1wheel01 10+ year member]

With the fuses it has it's only seeing 1-1500 thats just the way it is sorry. True newer cars are easier to flex but like I said with 2-3 layers of deadner and expanding foam thats the ticket. I def advise getting a nice box made. I do all of my boxes you can throw some sub par subs in a nice built efficient box and get mad output.

 

[340dustya 10+ year member]

i have been expereminting with box building for a while. i have found that my subs do best in about 5 cubes at 30 hz. they love the low notes

 

[on1wheel01 10+ year member]

pics of boxes to confirm?

 

[hatedonmostly 5,000+ posts]

God dammit OP, fucking holy ****.

 

[340dustya 10+ year member]

how do i post a picture on the thread?

 

[groundpound4200 5,000+ posts]

Host to Photobucket and post the link?

 

[340dustya 10+ year member]

my box picture by 340dustya - Photobucket

my box. 5 cubes at 30 hz

 

[RAM_Designs 5,000+ posts]

well my car is a 1973 duster so it is extremely old. when i wired it to the remote wire on the hu they stayed on when i turned the car off thats why i opted with the fuse box. my old amp was a true 4000 w. it had 4 50 amp fuses but when that broke it threw me out of alot of money so i had to get this other (4000 w) amp because i was on a budget. the reason i put an 80 amp in line fuse in was because it kept blowing the fuses on my amp every 5 minutes.

fail, and you're doing something wrong.

Most real 4KW amps will require a bit more than a single battery to function reliably. If your voltage is dropping too far below 12V when you're pounding on it you're putting your amp in big danger. Also cheaping out on amps is a good way to get equipment that will blow up often and perform poorly.

Yes.

nice car...I still have one, it was my first car. I had a pair of 12s ported in the trunk. Talk about a rattle machine lol. Get better quality amps, 1/0 wire, and bigger fuses.

Cool story brah. //content.invisioncic.com/y282845/emoticons/fyi.gif.9f1f679348da7204ce960cfc74bca8e0.gif

i just got a job so i thought i would just buy this cheapie amp until i had money to go get a real amp again like my old one. i wasnt really discappointed in how it sounded though. i thought since it was probly not pushing out anything close to a true 4k than i would be fine with only one battery at the time. and i would add another when i got my better amp. this obviously didnt work though.

Bad idea, sure didn't.

okay. i figured i would unbridge it in case the amp wasnt actually 2 ohm stable bridged. but then i giggled the power wire where it enters the terminal on the amp and it started playing. so i taped the wire in the position it was where it would still play. idk how that is because it is 0ga wire and it had a good connection with the terminal. it works fine now but isnt as loud. idk if i should leave it unbridged or put it back so i can get that gut wrenching bass back? also is there any way to wire two 2ohm dvc subs to 4ohm so i can bridge it safely?

It isn't, fail, and no.

fail setup, fail advice, fail thread.

truf.

why is everybody hating? i know what i am doing. i just ran it to some shitty equiptment. i solderded the terminal back on and it fixed all my problems.

Doesn't seem like it holmes.

i even asked best buy to hook my subs up for me when i first started with car audio and they said they wouldnt do it. they said my car was too old that they didint feel comfortable doing it. so i had to. ran into alot of problems trying to put this powerful of a system in a car thats electrical systm is from 1973. i have set up subs in about 15 newer cars (2000 and up) and it was no problem. but when you try doing it in a car like mine it is very difficult.

scary brah.

What brand amps are you using?
Obviously they are ****.

Indeed

old mono block was power acoustik. new one is logic soundlab. the power acoustik was awesome until it broke but my new one i would agree is shitty. only reason i bought it was bc i was on a budgit

PA is low level, Logic is pure trash.

 

[RAM_Designs 5,000+ posts]

some power acoustik stuff is pretty cheap. but the mofos are one of the best 12's or 15's you can get. they out perform even the pricier L7's. and my old power acoustik amp BAMF is not a bad amp eather. and yes a 4000 watt system is "POWERFUL IN A CAR THATS ELECTRICAL SYSTEM IS FROM 1973"

No, no, and it isn't a "4kw system" so stop calling it that.

With the fuses it has it's only seeing 1-1500 thats just the way it is sorry. True newer cars are easier to flex but like I said with 2-3 layers of deadner and expanding foam thats the ticket. I def advise getting a nice box made. I do all of my boxes you can throw some sub par subs in a nice built efficient box and get mad output.

True story. 1500 is probably the most you're going to see out of that amp...any more and you're talking about some dirty power at that point.

God dammit OP, fucking holy ****.

This.

 

[340dustya 10+ year member]

thanks for the insparation ********...

 

[RAM_Designs 5,000+ posts]

thanks for the insparation ********...

You come here asking a question and then you don't listen to answers and dismiss everyone's opinions...last time I checked you were the one needing help. Not to mention you say some lulztastic things along the way, how can we resist to not have some fun with that?