WalMart 4 Guage Wire

Actually, flexibility has everything to do with the wire. The higher the strand count, the more flexible. That's all we buy the strand count for actually. For dc current, strand count has little to do with conductivity. Ac current is a whole different story.

 
Originally posted by KelBench400 Actually, flexibility has everything to do with the wire. The higher the strand count, the more flexible. That's all we buy the strand count for actually. For dc current, strand count has little to do with conductivity. Ac current is a whole different story.
So what do you run? Wire type? Anyway, like I said, DC current wire is wire...strand count IMO means little to nothing. Wire is wire, thats my story and I'm sticking to it.

 
To all who disagree with me...I will gladly sit you down at my house, blindfold you, and compare different wires, whether it be 2 dollar wire or 2000 dollar wire at let you listen to see if you hear a difference. You won't, I'll guarantee it.

 
Originally posted by RangerMan So what do you run? Wire type? Anyway, like I said, DC current wire is wire...strand count IMO means little to nothing. Wire is wire, thats my story and I'm sticking to it.
I second dustin on this one...I dont see where Expensive wiring has anthing to do with this...Wire is wire..as stated by dustin...OK back to ELECTRONICS 101...The only thing that really matters is Gauge wiring...The $200 wiring kits have the same "passthrough" ratings as any other standard wiring kit..Gauge of the wire comes into play when certain power levels are being induced! But you all who go pay $50 for wire are just idiots, when $10-$20 wire is basically all the same thing...and how does the DC of wire have anything to do with this?? That would just help prove mine and dustins theory! Well I second dustin and sticking to it!!

Blake

 
Originally posted by evo2k3 How do you have you made so many post with ignorant comments like that? So every company out there that makes "more expensive" wire is scamming the world than right?
Yes.

Hey why stop there, just run solid wire in your car, no difference right?
Because it's hard to work with - no flexibility. Technically, solid wire would be the best, but the difference would probably be a 0.000001% gain or something like that, so the flexibility of car audio wire is far more advantagous than the extremely slight cross sectional area gained with using solid wire.

Do you honestly think that home depot 4 gauge wire (something like 15-20 strands) is the same quality (ie low resistance, well insolated) as for example the 4 guage Knukoncepts sells, something like 2000+ strands?
Resistance as low?? Of course it is. Insulation - can't say for sure. Probably not quite as flexible and/or heat resistant as typical car audio wire insulation.

If your of that belief, I would suggest you enrole yourself in a physics cource in electrity.
I've had them.

I know a lot of people buy from knukoncepts, very reasonable prices, welding wire is also common, you can search for marine usages, power demand is generally high there as well. If your not running a huge system that wallmart kit will do you just fine, but no serious audiophile would use that quality.
Many do.

 
Originally posted by n2audio Yes.

[/b]

Because it's hard to work with - no flexibility. Technically, solid wire would be the best, but the difference would probably be a 0.000001% gain or something like that, so the flexibility of car audio wire is far more advantagous than the extremely slight cross sectional area gained with using solid wire.

[/b]

Resistance as low?? Of course it is. Insulation - can't say for sure. Probably not quite as flexible and/or heat resistant as typical car audio wire insulation.

[/b]

I've had them.

Many do. [/b]
Werd...I've had many a physics courses...and many, many people run Wal-Mart wire in dB Drag...

 
Right now, I'm running three different brands of 4 gauge (Rockford, Stinger, Scosche). I didn't mean to disagree with you about wire being wire. For dc current, strand count means little to nothing. For flexibility though, strand count can mean alot. All that said, any high strand count wire should be plenty flexible for in-car use. Buy what is cheap.

 
Originally posted by RangerMan To all who disagree with me...I will gladly sit you down at my house, blindfold you, and compare different wires, whether it be 2 dollar wire or 2000 dollar wire at let you listen to see if you hear a difference. You won't, I'll guarantee it.
Completely agreed.

You know the $10K amp challenge that RC constantly has on the table?? Well, for people that think they can hear a difference in wires he'll put 100,000 on the table. And he's generally referring to signal. Power would make even less of a difference. As long as the material and cross-sectional area is the same.

 
Originally posted by n2audio Completely agreed.

 

You know the $10K amp challenge that RC constantly has on the table?? Well, for people that think they can hear a difference in wires he'll put 100,000 on the table. And he's generally referring to signal. Power would make even less of a difference. As long as the material and cross-sectional area is the same.
Yep...glad someone sees it my way;)

 
Originally posted by KelBench400 Right now, I'm running three different brands of 4 gauge (Rockford, Stinger, Scosche). I didn't mean to disagree with you about wire being wire. For dc current, strand count means little to nothing. For flexibility though, strand count can mean alot. All that said, any high strand count wire should be plenty flexible for in-car use. Buy what is cheap.
I agree...but when I say wire is wire, I'm talking power wise. Flexibility is a priority, but personally, I'd pay $30 for tight wire before I paid $100+ for wire I could wrap around a pole...

 
who ever said anything about ridiculously expensive wire, you paid 50 bucks for a 1/0 kit right? not sure what all a kit includes, but I would assume the wire and an inline fuse holder, mabey a distro block? I purchached from knukoncepts (not a name brand like you think of the two examples you used before, JL and stinger), got 25 feet, fuse holder and block for right around 75. I was never talking about outragous brands like stinger. Yes flexability is an issue, and I belive rangeman said something t the effect of "unless your useing it for more than 4 years" -- yeah I plan too, I ran 0 guage, I cannot see needed heavier duty than that in my future. So lets say you only replace it once, your at 100 bucks, while I remain at 75 -- there is always a trade off in quality because poorer quality does not hold up. I am glad you brought up the point because it makes me think even more about it, more strans will also dictate the wires durability, flexing wire tends to break it, however breaking 1/5000th of the wire, vs 1/24th of the wire holds a large difference. dont want to start another JL argument here, but I did buy the sub prior to hearing a XXX and a brahma (two main comepitors), with no regaurd for money I would still choose the W7, but yes it is expensive because of the name, but people do this all the time in the world, a name is a reputation, you build a reputation by making good products, not to be misunderstood that a company CAN make good products with out a reputation (after all they have to build the rep somehow). I wont even start to argue that you can hear a difference from my wire to yours, but mabey 4 years from now you will? If you plan on doing something new and replacing, I see no reason not to buy inexpenive, you have to look at your needs, its like buying a house with a different type of mortgage, is a fixed rate better than a ARM? For some it is, for others it is not. Now my argument has shifted somewhat to application, and mabey we see more eye to eye now?

 
Thank you for backing up your opinion with a legitimate explanation.

Originally posted by evo2k3 Now my argument has shifted somewhat to application, and mabey we see more eye to eye now?
A little //content.invisioncic.com/y282845/emoticons/smile.gif.1ebc41e1811405b213edfc4622c41e27.gif

 
Originally posted by evo2k3 who ever said anything about ridiculously expensive wire, you paid 50 bucks for a 1/0 kit right? not sure what all a kit includes, but I would assume the wire and an inline fuse holder, mabey a distro block? I purchached from knukoncepts (not a name brand like you think of the two examples you used before, JL and stinger), got 25 feet, fuse holder and block for right around 75. I was never talking about outragous brands like stinger. Yes flexability is an issue, and I belive rangeman said something t the effect of "unless your useing it for more than 4 years" -- yeah I plan too, I ran 0 guage, I cannot see needed heavier duty than that in my future. So lets say you only replace it once, your at 100 bucks, while I remain at 75 -- there is always a trade off in quality because poorer quality does not hold up. I am glad you brought up the point because it makes me think even more about it, more strans will also dictate the wires durability, flexing wire tends to break it, however breaking 1/5000th of the wire, vs 1/24th of the wire holds a large difference. dont want to start another JL argument here, but I did buy the sub prior to hearing a XXX and a brahma (two main comepitors), with no regaurd for money I would still choose the W7, but yes it is expensive because of the name, but people do this all the time in the world, a name is a reputation, you build a reputation by making good products, not to be misunderstood that a company CAN make good products with out a reputation (after all they have to build the rep somehow). I wont even start to argue that you can hear a difference from my wire to yours, but mabey 4 years from now you will? If you plan on doing something new and replacing, I see no reason not to buy inexpenive, you have to look at your needs, its like buying a house with a different type of mortgage, is a fixed rate better than a ARM? For some it is, for others it is not. Now my argument has shifted somewhat to application, and mabey we see more eye to eye now?
Yeah basically...wire is wire...if you still have that same wire 4 years from now, contact me and I'll buy you a cookie. It won't happen...hehehe...but you HAVE just entered my neck of the woods. Hehehe W7 vs. XXX vs. Brahma??? Shall we?

 
I dont belive that wire is wire, however, I would conceed that in the short term decent wire will most likley preform almost the same as "high grade" wire. As for the W7 fight, no doubt the XXX carries more output than the w7, however, in listening to it I felt there was a sacrafice in quality (which is the basis for my system). The fight between the brahma and the w7 is VERY VERY close, with no reguard to cost. Ill be honest that I bought the w7 to impress people, lots of people have JL products, but not to many kids my age bump with W7's. I thought the w7 had a slight edge over the brahma in quality, and almost identicle in output. If blind folded, I dont know many people who could tell the difference. With knowlegde you learn, I probably droped about 200 more than I needed to on the W7 for an almost identicle result with the brahma, but oh well I have been very happy with it and as I said I am not as concerned with spl and would have steared away from the XXX because of its power needs and decreases quality.....and yet another JL battle has spawned, but i just thought I would share my side, becuase I think my opinion is a pretty decent comprimise.

 
Originally posted by RangerMan To all who disagree with me...I will gladly sit you down at my house, blindfold you, and beat you about head and shoulders with 3-foot lengths of various wires. Then we'll see if you feel a difference. You won't, I'll guarantee it.
//content.invisioncic.com/y282845/emoticons/eek.gif.771b7a90cf45cabdc554ff1121c21c4a.gif//content.invisioncic.com/y282845/emoticons/laugh.gif.48439b2acf2cfca21620f01e7f77d1e4.gif//content.invisioncic.com/y282845/emoticons/wink.gif.608e3ea05f1a9f98611af0861652f8fb.gif

Just bringing a little levity to the situation!

 
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