What is an acceptable value for the resistance?
if you take 3000w divide by amp efficiency which is 88%. 3000 / .88 = 3409w. That is your amp draw. Then divide that by voltage, 12v when off, 14.4 (used to be standard) when running. 3409 / 14.4 = 236 amps. That's the amperage draw at full volume maxed out, when you are setup to run 3,000w.So far as charging goes, how do I figure out what alternator to use?
To note: this system will be used for my entertainment purposes only. I have never and will never enter a competition...but would like to go to one.
I think that I mentioned something to that affect earlier. Anymore, newer cars especially, i use parallel grounding. Never have any grounding problems since.I don’t know if you have picked up on this yet but at that power level, you may also need to run a ground wire from the front battery to the rear battery. People think that the body of the car is huge compared to a piece of wire and should be able to carry almost unlimited amounts of current. But it’s not true. A modern unibody car is tack welded together then seam sealed.
My friend’s Maxima was losing 1.1 volts under load between the front and rear batteries at around 3200 watts rms total. We added his old 4 gauge wire as a ground between batteries and the drop went from 1.1v to .4v.
I'll not be upgrading it after it's built. This will be the last system I will ever install in a vehicle I own. I have my mind set on a couple Orion HCCA124 subs wired to 1 ohm. The subs are 2500 watts RMS capable and together should be able to handle what the amp throws at it. I have an XTR2500.1Dz that the birth sheet states has 2971 watts output. The single HCCA122 I have connected to it handles it just fine. Although it does start to have a smell after pounding it for about 10 minutes.if you take 3000w divide by amp efficiency which is 88%. 3000 / .88 = 3409w. That is your amp draw. Then divide that by voltage, 12v when off, 14.4 (used to be standard) when running. 3409 / 14.4 = 236 amps. That's the amperage draw at full volume maxed out, when you are setup to run 3,000w.
If you go 4,000w / 14.4v =277.7 amps.
Then you need to add on to what your vehicle does. Generally your stock alt is going to do everything it can maxed out: EFI, ECU, electric fans, low beams, high beams, brake lights, AC, interior lights, (stock) radio, cig lighter, dash lights, and have a little bit of head room.
Your amp doesn't constantly draw 277 amps even when you have it full volume, just when the heavy bass hits. Between that it's recharging, so it's relative to what music you listen to. Rock and country have more time between to recharge. Rap and generated bass music has a little. With 277 amps, I would say the range is about 200 -250, and you would never have a drop in voltage.
With your vehicle and you live somewhere cool enough that you don't use the AC, or hot enough where you use the electric fans, then you're never going to need 2/3rd of what your stock alt can do.
IMO, an alt is something you DO NOT want to buy twice, because you are going to upgrade to 12% more. A good one is a decent chunk of money for your system. With your amp being capable of 5K watts, and if you EVER MIGHT want to upgrade subs to that amount, I would go bigger now. I honestly wouldn't expect to find too many options for a 2000 Camry though. If you can find 250-300 you should be good.
Also know that when you do go shopping for an alt, there are two numbers that matter.
Amperage output at or near idle, (what will it do when you're at a stoplight), &
RPM needed for max output. (What will it put out at cruising speed).
A 300amp ebay alt is going to do less at idle than your stock ~100 amp alt, and won't do full output until over 3K rpm. Well where do you cruise at? Will you ever even see that output? A high quality alt will do most at idle, and full output around 2K rpm. Think about how you drive, and where you listen to it, and know what RPM you cruise at, or are usually driving at. Get those two numbers before you buy, and if they won't or can't give them to you, then keep shopping. That's going to be the difference between a $200 alt, and a $600 alt.
I'm running a J&S 320...no complaints or issues with mineJ&S does great work, fast, reliable and the customer service is excellent. Every other company I tried to get one for my Ford 4G Explorer gave me a run around. Some couldn't even get their answers straight enough to lie decently. J&S was straight forward from the get go and the pricing was awesome 379 for a 320 amp alternator and had options up to 400 or more for it. Even Apex gave me the run around as well.
No. Mine has a 2.2L 4cyl. I had thought about calling alternator shops around me and see if any could sell me an upgrade kit if such a thing exists. But the stock alt. in the 2000 model is 90A.Is your camry a v6?
I have a 99' Avalon with 3liter v6.
I'm going from memory here but can verify if needed...
The stock alt in my car is 100amp
A 2005 Sienna uses a 150amp alternator. RockAuto has a ton of them for $150.
It's a direct bolt on replacement. The only difference is my car has 3 pin harness connection, Sienna has 4pin.
I just plugged in the 3 wires my car uses, 4th pin left unused.
And that's how I got 50amp increase for $150
This is from their site:J&S does great work, fast, reliable and the customer service is excellent. Every other company I tried to get one for my Ford 4G Explorer gave me a run around. Some couldn't even get their answers straight enough to lie decently. J&S was straight forward from the get go and the pricing was awesome 379 for a 320 amp alternator and had options up to 400 or more for it. Even Apex gave me the run around as well.